Chen Peng added sartorial elements to his fall 2024 line, which, similar to his Paris debut last March, referenced iconic shapes from Parisian couture from the likes of Christian Dior, Cristóbal Balenciaga and Jean Paul Gaultier while He reconfigured everything using the techniques used to construct a down jacket, the star product of Chen's brand.
Cue variations on jackets with dramatic shoulders and floral embroidery, decadent coats thickly sprinkled with ostrich feathers, and sweeping dresses with sparkling veils adorned with Swarovski crystals.
The use of tailored techniques could be seen in practical blazers, padded with feathers around the sleeves and lapels, quite tame compared to the rest of the dramatic line.
Chen said the implementation of tailoring skills not only serves as a nod to the brand's menswear roots, but is also a deeply personal tribute to his father, who passed away in 2023.
“I made him a suit when he was a fashion student in London. After her death, my mother gave it to me. For me, 2023 was a year with many glorious moments but also a very dark time. That's why I chose red and black to express the sense of intertwined emotions where love, hope, danger, grief and silence were all present in the same place,” Chen said.
For more Paris Fashion Week reviews, click here.