One apple gave Isaac Newton his eureka moment and another, a giant green sphere by Danish artist Casper Sejersen in the middle of the runway, signaled the epiphany Cecilie Bahnsen wants people to have about her brand.
“That [we] it can be more than the box they put us in,” he said backstage before his fall show. But this was a change of pace rather than a complete departure from her floating, romantic aesthetic. Bahnsen combined that with stronger shoulders, elongated silhouettes and the introduction of leather, with materials sourced from Nona Source except outerwear in collaboration with Mackintosh.
Rugged-looking boots, both developed with Ecco Leather by the Danish brand and a collaboration with footwear brand Diemme, as well as a new chapter in their ongoing collaboration with Asics completed these looks based on “a stubbornness for [our] femininity that I want people to see and that we possess,” she said.
Gradually moving from blacks to blues, browns and almost whites, Bahnsen worked her silhouettes in monochromes, saying that it helped her focus on cuts and techniques, a direction she will lean further into with the release of Made upon request.
On the one hand, it is about taking advantage of the existing demand that Bahnsen and his team have been satisfying on a case-by-case basis. On the other hand, “I can also do what I really love to do: learn techniques and stuff,” he said.
“That's going to be our way of making the bend pieces and also really maintaining the art of the business,” he said. At a time when luxury consumption is declining, it's a shrewd choice. Said Bahnsen: “The volume of the collection also has a little to do with the need to fight for your creativity, what really matters to you: nothing is a walk in the park.”
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