Amiri and Sean Suen show supreme elegance, Rick Owens opts for futuristic style

On Thursday, Paris Men's Fashion Week presented another selection of stunning Fall/Winter 2024-25 collections. Of note were those presented by Rick Owens in his powerfully fascinating show, as well as Mike Amiri with his vibrant and super luxurious collection, while Chinese designer Sean Suen remodeled his men's wardrobe with original high-end looks.

This season, Rick Owens opted for a spectacular presentation at the Tokyo Palace. Instead, the American designer organized his show at his home, at his headquarters on the Place du Palais-Bourbon, next to the French Parliament building. It was a fairly private event, set to David Bowie's somber and haunting soundtrack. Warsaw.

The gaunt models staggered forward, hampered by cumbersome, bulky rubber boots, the fruit of a collaboration with London-based Australian-South African designer Straytukay. Precariously anchored to the ground with these ogive-shaped balloons as footwear, the model's thin, elongated bodies seemed to float, as if they were trudging through freshly fallen snow or across unfamiliar terrain.

Their silhouettes were those of galactic warriors glimpsed at different times of the day. First they came out in their Goldrake-style padded protective gear, dressed in enormous padded vests, sculptural jackets with oversized shoulders, pointing up or to the side, and voluminous leather jackets. In his introductory note, Owens explained that “the proportions are grotesque, inhuman, a screaming reaction against some of the most disappointing instances of human behavior we will witness in our lifetimes. But there remains the eternal and utopian hope of a better place.”

A hope that could be glimpsed once our heroes from a future galaxy, returning from their space missions, took off their armor and cuirasses and dressed in much cozier garments, such as plush jumpsuits made of recycled wool, alpaca and cashmere, which they often wore at the bottom. Just one part, the blouses hanging loose over their legs, the long sleeves dragging on the floor. Some of these loungewear were emblazoned with 'Porterville,' the name of the Southern California town where Owens grew up, which also has Mexican roots.

The collection was heavily influenced by this cozy vibe, and also included wool ensembles and sweatshirts, felted wool jumpsuits, frayed jersey and plush fur, rounded, shaggy capes, and down-filled duvets wrapped around the body like a cozy jacket.

The other American brand that showed in Paris on the third day of fashion week was Amiri, the brand launched in 2014 by Californian designer Mike Amiri. He used to study law and work for rock bands, designing special suits for them and eventually launched into fashion creating luxury denim looks and sophisticated leather goods. In just a few years, he has made a name for himself, especially among some of the most prominent American rappers and musicians, who adore his luxurious outfits.

Amiri has now ditched denim, replacing it with an ultra-chic and laid-back classic wardrobe, still oozing freshness and always marbled with a rock vibe, although the new collection was presented to a jazz-funk soundtrack. It's all in the fabrics, luxury materials such as cashmere, silk, mohair, satin and leather, characterized by innovative research with an artisanal touch. Amiri has worked painstakingly on textures this season, creating striking shimmering effects. The show included openwork tank tops with a discreet shine, glimpsed under a silk shirt, wool hats decorated with precious stones and even a soft mohair cardigan adorned with rubies. The garments shone like firelight, especially the shiny jackets and shirts woven with gold thread, covered in sequins or embroidered with pearls. Some coats were streaked with fine silver threads, like raindrops, suits were covered with silver rods, and crystals were omnipresent. They appeared in particular on brooches that decorated hats, pinned to the lapel of a vest and on a satin tuxedo.

Amiri men appreciate comfortable, slightly flared trousers, undeniably elegant with their side parting. Shirt unbuttoned over an undershirt or dressed in a gorgeous, colorful polo shirt, they casually wore luxurious jackets, their tasseled scarves crept up to their thighs, and they always carried a discreet but essential men's bag. Chess and leopard prints livened up the collection. To go out at night, these dandy types dressed to the nines, with tailcoats and tuxedos whose ends fell majestically to the ground.

A large crowd also gathered for Sean Suen's show, a label whose audience has been growing season after season. The Beijing-born designer, who founded his brand in the Chinese capital in 2012, distances himself this time from the oriental influences that usually inspire him – except for some jackets with Mao collars – and reinterprets the traditional codes of men's fashion.

The collar of a shirt floated in the air and some garments were replicated infinitely. Each garment had a double. A classic suit jacket grew to oversized proportions, buttoned to the side, revealing its cufflink. An elegant brushed wool coat featured a second layer in the front, made from the coat's satin lining. A jacket with patch pockets intertwined with a blouse, and another, and its replica, were attached to the collar of yet another jacket. The pants featured double trompe l'œil waistbands and on another pair, the strap of a fanny pack was fastened on top of the royal belt.

Thick wool long johns were worn under high-waisted trousers held with suspenders and combined with a vest, for a perfect grandfather look, very fashionable at the moment. Some of Sean Suen's young people showed a rebellious streak, dressed in more daring outfits, such as the short knit tunic with thigh-high boots, leaving their behinds exposed.

The collection ended with a series of classy dad suits, impeccably cut from fine wools, worn under regal coats and paired with unusual openwork ties. A handful of fur items also appeared, such as muffs and boa scarves.