It's hard to pin down Alexis Mabille this season, as she shows off a wide variety of silhouettes, as well as colors ranging from black to blush to berry.
But that's how he likes it.
For the collection titled “Society,” she worked with the idea of a wardrobe for the woman who attends fabulous events and fundraisers, and needs dresses for her galas, but can't predict what she might want too far in advance. She opens the doors of her closet to a variety of Alexis Mabille dresses with flared sheaths on offer, or off-the-shoulder versions with voluminous sleeves that sound vaguely romantic.
“This is not a thematic collection. It’s really to flatter different types of personalities,” she said.
There was a rainbow of reds as he reeled them off during his presentation: crimson, carmine, strawberry, raspberry, a pinkish ruby, blood and brick. Lighter pinks and a bright blue emphasized that this was an explosion of color of a collection, in contrast to its mostly black couture offering.
Women have been clamoring for the color, the designer explained, a marked change from a decade ago when everyone wanted black. “For years we made a colorful collection and they always bought black,” he said. “Today it is rather the opposite trend. People need vibrant colors, perhaps, to convey a positive atmosphere.”
There was still a core of black basics, including a short cape-like slip dress that Mabille says is about “legs, legs, legs” and a pantsuit cinched at the waist with a Brandenbourg belt for added drama.
Trimmings were used as a closure on a wrap dress with flowing sleeves, while a simple champagne column had a satin collar folded over to reveal the shoulder. The fuller dresses with Chantilly lace at the neckline or sleeves had a soft billow, and Mabille noticed that even the very voluminous skirts were made without crinolines to create easy comfort.
There is something here for every woman of means. Mabille's wardrobe offers options.
For more Paris Fashion Week reviews, click here.