Taking a rhythm and not appearing on the runway, Hanako Maeda was able to distill what is at the core of her work: Japanese craftsmanship and tailoring. Her choice led her to omit the embellishments and mute the color palette to show “details that you don't really see much when you have more embellishments,” she said in a call from Japan.
Tailoring is a staple of the brand, but the season's minimalist approach really made it shine. A fine striped suit with the addition of asymmetrical pleats in the details of the skirt played with duality, fluidity against structure; a sand-colored jacket tucked into matching high-waisted pants, masculinity with femininity. Outerwear options included a double-faced wool coat, a faux fur-trimmed cape in contrasting hues, and a soft faux fur trucker jacket—all easy classics that will last more than one season. She completed it with several evening looks that played with transparent elements: one in black with panels of fabric that fell from the chiffon skirt looked dreamy, perfect for a young woman's debut on the red carpet.
Maeda presented the upcoming gender-neutral collection, Adeam Ichi, based on “how people really dress on the streets of Tokyo,” she said. Focusing on layering, she fused a Japanese take on preppy style with streetwear. It could easily be combined with her main collection, showing the versatility and variety of her work.
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