There's the naked clothing and then there's the weather in Sweden.
This winter temperatures have dropped to minus 25 degrees Celsius, so Jonny Johansson's first instinct was to cover up. He opened his Acne Studios show wearing a yeti-style jacket made from Icelandic sheepskin, but it's hard to escape the bare skin trend sweeping fall runways, so he styled it with nothing underneath.
Models paraded before a blinding white stage dotted with chairs made from recycled tires by Estonian artist Villu Jaanisoo.
“I wanted a fast woman,” Johansson said backstage. Read it however you want. The show notes clarified that the atmosphere was “sculpted and futuristic,” but why not a little daring too?
Hourglass-shaped molded leather dresses and coats gave off dominatrix vibes, while second-skin nappa biker suits featured contrasting red zippers.
This season, the brand's signature denim was dragged through the garage with oil-coated, metallic and rust-inspired treatments. Highlights included a funnel-neck jacket with a glazed finish and floor-length buttoned coats.
Ribbed knit sweaters with oversized collars that exposed the midriff. Front-row guest Willow Smith wore hers with an oversized jacket and jeans, showing how the look could translate to the street. “Acne is very bad,” she declared after the show.
Johansson is known for her artisanal approach, but with Generation Z wearing underwear as a fashion statement, this collection struck a balance between layers of texture and today's obsession with toned legs: bodycon meets outdoors.
For more Paris Fashion Week reviews, click here.
