It's not every day Francis Ford Coppola deigns to comment on a TikTok trend.
But she made an exception for the so-called mafia wife aesthetic: a mix of fur coats, leather and leopard prints that is presented on the platform as a kind of mafia cosplay.
In a recent Instagram post, Coppola, the director of “The Godfather,” compared the style to that of Connie Corleone, a character in the film played by his sister, Talia Shire: “a sensual and charming Italian princess.”
Hundreds of videos on the app show young women with no apparent marital connection to organized crime trying out their own approaches to looks, usually involving heavy jewelry and heavier eyeliner.
TikTok produces a new reigning “aesthetic” every few months, and its real-world influence on off-screen clothing varies widely. So what is really driving this newly popular popularization of outlaw neighbor women?
What is the 'mob wife aesthetic'?
The most basic version is to throw on a fur coat (real or fake) over an all-black outfit. But according to its defenders, appearance is nothing without the attitude that accompanies it. Careful students of the mafia wives' work add red nails and lipstick, a high-volume hairstyle, and sunglasses large enough to function as a kind of windshield.
“It's expressive, bold and unapologetic,” said Sarah Arcuri, 29, who lives in New Jersey and calls herself the “CEO of Mob Wife Aesthetic” on TikTok. She has dressed that way since high school, she said, inspired by the flashily dressed women in her Italian-American family, as well as the reality shows “Mob Wives” and “The Real Housewives of New Jersey.”
Arcuri has been posting about the mob wife look since 2022, but interest in the trend didn't pick up until earlier this month. Her fans rallied around an audio clip posted by Kayla Trivieri that has since been used as the soundtrack for more than 2,000 other videos.
Hey, give me some examples.
TikTokers primarily look for examples of fictional mafia wives (and girlfriends) like Carmela Soprano, Edie Falco's character on the HBO series “The Sopranos.” Users of the app lip-sync to scenes of her arguments with Tony Soprano (James Gandolfini) and circulate images of Ms. Falco with French tips and long hair. Others point to her “Sopranos” co-star Drea de Matteo, playing Adriana La Cerva, and Lorraine Bracco’s “Goodfellas” character Karen Hill.
Where does this come from?
Speaking of “The Sopranos,” many app users believe HBO planted the trend to coincide with its extensive promotional efforts for the 25th anniversary of the show's debut. In a statement, HBO spokesman Jason Mulderig called the trend “a testament to 'The Sopranos' and its lasting impact on culture,” but he was not responsible for creating it.
Arcuri and others see TikTok's preoccupation with mob wives as a reaction to the minimalist perfection sometimes promoted on visual social media platforms. Last year there was a “clean girl aesthetic” (think: beige sweaters, tidy updos) and a “stealth wealth,” which prioritized subtle meanings of wealth.
I'm sorry, but is this real?
Typically, TikTok “aesthetic” trends go something like this: identifying a long-established style (wealthy older women wearing cardigans, for example) and giving it a catchy new label (Coastal Grandmas!). In this case, there are many people who dress in the style captured by “The Sopranos” 25 years ago, some of whom talk about their look being repackaged as a “trend.” It remains to be seen how many people outside of that demographic will start dressing this way because they saw it on TikTok.
Is there a deeper meaning?
Like the clean girl aesthetic and stealth wealth, the mob wife look focuses on significant signifiers of wealth, but this time it's those usually associated with the nouveau riche. And specifically those whose wealth was obtained outside the rule of law.
In the most popular depictions, from “The Sopranos” to Lil' Kim, even when powerful herself, the mob wife is complicit with a more powerful man: her sex appeal, beauty and style reflect her power over him. . What the mob wife knows or doesn't know about her own situation creates her dramatic appeal: is she clueless and has no real power in the illicit realm of her husband? Or is she smart and looks the other way while he enjoys her money? Anyway, in exchange for her silence, she can go shopping.
“To live that lifestyle, as we've seen in movies and shows, you have to have a certain toughness,” Ms. Arcuri said. “They can wear whatever they want and get away with it.”
Someone must be complaining about this.
Arcuri said he disagreed with critics who say the trend glorifies an association with organized crime. And for every influencer currently asking for a fur coat, other TikTok users say these trends are increasingly looking manufactured and pointless. “There's a bit of aesthetic fatigue on social media,” she added. “Every little microtrend is labeled.”
Each of those labels functions as an opportunity for influencers, brands, and, yes, media outlets to jump on a trend and direct it toward their own ends. Those looking to rock a mob wife look may have to pay for it: A “mystery” box of second-hand mob wife clothing is now on sale on Poshmark for nearly $200.