Grand Central Market, an incarnation of the Immigrant, confronts the new climate of fear


Most of the days of the week, the pedestrian traffic and the rumble of the business are constant in Grand Central Market, a food hall and a basic element of the historical nucleus of the center since 1917. In a way, the market, with its oldest positions that range from Mexican kitchens to the Chinese and Salvadorans, is an incarnation of immigrant experience in Los Angeles.

But this week, even in what are typically their peak hours, the tables were empty. The legendary market, like so many other restaurants and businesses throughout the center, is losing businesses due to the immigration and customs' immigration and compliance rates and the anti-there protests of the neighborhood.

On Thursday afternoon, Martha Luna stood up helping few guests under the iconic red neon signage in China Cafe, where she has been a server for more than 40 years. Founded in 1959, it is one of the oldest inherited suppliers in Grand Central Market.

The China Cafe server for a long time, Martha Luna, helps a lonely client on Thursday.

(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Times)

“In recent days, it has been crazy,” he said from behind the red counter. “Everyone is afraid, you know? When they come, they are just talking about [how] They are afraid to leave. Even if they go to the market or eat, they are so afraid, even my boss. “

During the last week, he said, he has seen one to three of his usual customers every day, with only one or two guests sitting at the counter at any given time.

During the day, the center's office workers are aligned at the squad envelope counter. At night, Luna said, the clientele is mostly tourists. Since 1959, they have come for American Chinese classics such as sweet and sour chicken, pork chow to the mein grill, egg rolls, chop dream and fried rice of shrimp.

Some of the newest and striking suppliers also noticed a dramatic fall in business.

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“Normally we are one of the suppliers that remains very, very busy throughout the week and day,” said Amy Recinos in Villa Tacos. It is not uncommon to see customer lines that extend along the counter while they wait for carbonized meats in a layer of crunchy cheese and fresh blue corn tortillas.

Typically the taquería – One of the 101 best restaurants in Los Times in Los Angeles – See a “huge” lunch race in the market from noon to 2 pm, but this week Villa's is closing early due to lack of businesses.

Recinos spoke with some of the usual customers of the restaurant, most of whom work in the neighborhood and told him that they are working from home “to avoid disturbances and avoid protests.”

On Sunday, the stand found that most of its customers are protesters, and Recinos hopes that this is the case this weekend.

“To all my Hispanic immigrants: I'm here for you, we see you,” he said. “I am very fortunate and blessed to be born here, but we support it, and I hope this is calmed because it is not easy to know or predict what will happen for families and children. Just keep safe and we are here for you if you need a meal.”

Bella Aguirre sat in a stool at the Rice Sticky counter, finishing her Pad Kra Pow food. The aspiring costume designer came to the market with a friend outside the city despite her father's warning against the dangers of the neighborhood given the protests.

She said that on Thursday afternoon, she found that she was “quite peaceful”, and that he hopes to return this weekend.

“I think it's within our rights to protest,” he said. “And I'm looking forward to Saturday protests because I think it will be a greater effusion of people. I think I feel safe.”

Grand Central Market, he said, seemed slow compared to his previous visits.

Close, in the position of praised Smashburger Spot for victoryA yellow and handwritten sign said: “Due to current events, we will close early.”

Sitting in the patio with a laptop and a cup of green juice, Sonya Mendoza noticed the shortage of customers that he regularly sees in the market. From noon to 3 pm, he said, there is always a lunch race. On Thursday, only a handful of customers passed or filled the nearby tables.

Mendoza's work Center in the center and Echo Park from Monday to Friday, and lives less than one mile of the historic food hall. She discovered that desolation is not limited to the Grand Central Market.

“There is no street seller in sight,” said Mendoza. “I have not seen any street vendor in the last three days, which is amazing for me because I live in Echo Park and are generally everywhere there.”

In a seat in the corner at Lucky Bird's counter, Froi Cruz sat enjoying his rest from handling the fried chicken post. He has worked at the restaurant for five years and said the businesses are exhausted now.

Customers have gradually decreased throughout the week. Due to the left touch of business, Lucky Bird has been closing around 5 pm, two hours before unusal from Monday to Friday. This weekend will not reach its usual hours of the 9 pm.

Much of Lucky Bird's clientele are office workers who make fried chicken sandwiches, tenders, wings and sides such as Cheddar Jalapeño cookies. That business reached a fraction of its old volume this week.

“I feel that people are afraid to leave,” Cruz said.

On the other side of the hall, Jose Marroquin in Shiku echoed these feelings. “It's very slow,” he said. “There are no people, nothing.”

At the end of the block, a seller of Decade Central Market found its own lock and mortar location and, like its old food brothers, very affected by the loss of business of the week.

Lydia Clarke, one of the owners of Dtla Cheese Superette.

Lydia Clarke, one of the owners of Dtla Cheese Superette.

(Jennelle Fong)

Dtla Cheese Superette depends largely on the nearby offices for sandwiches lunch, salads and charcuterie tables. The co -owner and remover Lydia Clarke said that all her catering orders were canceled this week, which is difficult to compensate. On Sunday, Clarke and his partner, Chef Reed Herrick, served several protesters. On Monday, they noticed “an immediate stop” to business.

He called the lack of “brutal” clients and wondered how Dtla Cheese Superette or her adjacent bar, Kippered, will resist the touches of curm and the remote work of the neighborhood due to anti-hie protests.

As a long -time resident of the city center, Clarke considers helping protesters such as serving their community, and expects to continue doing it all the time.

“We feed many people who have been walking on the pave [for] Our community and causes, “said Clarke, tearing.” With this cause you feel so personal for so many [in the] Industry, of our food sources, of our workforce. I am not afraid to be taken, so I feel disconsolate by these families. It is an honor to be here and have our doors open and have a place for people to come. “

Times Lauren NG and Karla Marie Sanford personnel contributed contributed To this report.