While light, ethereal beauty may have dominated last year's couture runways, 2024 has already brought more exaggerated, abstract, and even melodramatic makeup.
Maison Margiela's Artisanal Spring 2024 show, which closed Paris Haute Couture week this year, was the archetype of this, where models were stripped of their natural features and remodeled to fit the doll-like visions of John Galliano and Pat McGrath.
McGrath, the makeup mogul who hand-placed tiny red Swarovski crystals on Doja Cat's upper body for Schiaparelli's 2023 ready-to-wear show, collaborated with the house's creative director, focusing in devotion to the “physical expression of emotion” with the garments, according to the press release.
The arched eyebrows were penciled over the bleached hairs beneath. Heart-shaped fake lips were stamped in the middle of the mouth. The heavily shaded eyelids were brushed to the high points of the forehead and circular patches of yellow blush juxtaposed with chiffon clothing that revealed the naked body. One model's face was not without at least one painted feature inspired by a doll.
However, among the notable coded dolls there was one that captivated the eyes and enjoyed the flash of the cameras. Under white spotlights and a powerful full moon, moody characters with what looked like porcelain skin appeared. The devastatingly beautiful glow wasn't achieved with just any foundation or skin tint.
To achieve the perfect glowy finish, McGrath used her Skin Fetish foundation and concealer on top of her Divine Skin: Rose 001 The Essence, according to she.
“Surreal skin meets moonlight muses,” McGrath's Instagram caption read alongside a time-lapse video of models putting on makeup.
However, after images emerged of models removing a layer of film from their faces after the show, some assumed that the beauty artist had sprayed Kryolan's Liquid Glass on her skin first. The wet-to-dry applicant is supposed to look like a layer of latex and can be removed by peeling or soap and water.
In a post by @frontedbeauty on TikTok, a woman was seen tearing the film off her cheeks after having bright yellow blush applied on top. Social media users took to the comments to share their product and technique suggestions for smitten fans interested in recreating out-of-this-world makeup.
“You can replicate the look with clear exfoliating face masks. I think the Freeman brand makes them,” noted one woman, while another said, “I love the porcelain doll look that was achieved. “I did this in the 90s with the St. Ives Cucumber Peeling Mask.”
Others recalled creations inspired by the late '90s and early 2000s. Below McGrath's Instagram post, one fashion enthusiast added: “This takes me back to the Dior days of the early 2000s.”
“It's VERY strange that I'm left speechless but, well, here we are. There are literally no words except pure PERFECTION,” admitted one obsessed individual.
One excited TikToker commented: “This is the future of makeup. Imagine not having to use makeup removers or wet wipes. GOD SENT.”
Some curious viewers wondered if McGrath used the liquid cup before or after applying foundation. The answer is not clear, but it is evident that the desired theatrical effect was exquisitely executed.
