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Bella Hadid made her return to the catwalk after being absent for two years at Saint Laurent's Paris Fashion Week show.
An in-demand face in fashion, the 27-year-old model has been conspicuously absent from the catwalks after taking a step back to prioritize her health in 2022, having openly discussed her ongoing battle with Lyme disease.
Hadid wore an oversized suit and masculine tie, thick-framed sunglasses and a slicked-back ponytail. Hadid's look was one of many nods to Yves Saint Laurent's own 1970s wardrobe throughout the show, which the brand's creative director Anthony Vaccarello presented in the form of fluid suits and layered coats.
Saint Laurent's spring/summer ready-to-wear collection, presented at the house's historic headquarters on Rue de Bellechasse, was a perfect blend of old-school elegance and modern sophistication, with supermodels Kate Moss and Linda Evangelista sitting front row.
Yves Saint Laurent himself once declared: “Chanel liberated women and I empowered them,” a sentiment that certainly resonated throughout Vaccarello’s collection and was rooted in the founder’s style.
Known for reinventing the brand since taking over in 2016, Vaccarello managed to deliver a masterclass in quiet luxury with maximalist accents. Following last year’s understated utilitarian theme, this collection changed tack and showcased sleek, tailored suits alongside extravagant, broad-shouldered brocade jackets.
Suits in anthracite, black and deep plum dominated the catwalk, with double-breasted jackets and wide-leg trousers referencing Yves Saint Laurent's personal style.
Vaccarello's approach this season was all about control and precision: clothes that were impeccably cut but never boring. He moved away from the revealing, statement-making looks of previous seasons, reaffirming that sometimes power comes from being fully clothed.
Although the opening day clothes were more minimalist, the accessories added just the right amount of flair to the collection. Heavy gold bracelets, wide ties, and jewel-encrusted shoes gave each look a touch of the glamour Saint Laurent is known for.
Vaccarello paid homage to YSL muses like Loulou de la Falaise with these bold, statement pieces, which anchor otherwise understated looks in the brand’s iconic history.
As the show progressed, however, Vaccarello moved from sleek tailoring to extravagant eveningwear, injecting colour and playfulness into the collection. Seventies jewel tones from fuchsia to canary yellow lit up the catwalk, while brocade blazers and sheer blouses made their debut.
The transition from strict suits to playful eveningwear seemed like a nod to Yves Saint Laurent’s glory days in the 1970s, a time when the brand was synonymous with bold glamour. It was a reminder that while Vaccarello’s vision is avant-garde, it remains rooted in the house’s rich history.
Even the collection’s more relaxed pieces, such as pajama-inspired tunics and flowing pants, were enhanced with luxurious fabrics and dazzling accessories, paying homage to Saint Laurent’s long-standing connection with bohemian high society and artistic circles.
Zoe Kravitz, always the epitome of Saint Laurent cool, was among the star-studded front row, dressed in an all-black lace ensemble that perfectly matched the collection's understated glamour.
Vaccarello's spring/summer collection was a tribute to the legacy of Yves Saint Laurent and a masterclass in how to balance restraint with power, elegance with avant-garde.
With Bella Hadid's triumphant return in a streamlined suit, Saint Laurent remains a symbol of timeless sophistication, showing that sometimes, the loudest statement is made in the quietest way.
