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Kelly Rissman
US News Reporter
Priya Ahluwalia's latest show combined British home comforts with the rich tapestry of her Indian and Nigerian heritage.
Ahluwalia is an independent designer known for her patchwork techniques, transforming free-stock denim into new fashion.
Sustainability is central to the designer's mission, which has earned her the Leader of Change award at the Fashion Awards three years in a row.
Her spring/summer 2025 show was titled ‘Home Sweet Home’, inspired by a trip Ahluwalia took to Jamaica over Christmas. Home is both a physical and emotional concept for the designer, and the collection was inspired by her Nigerian-Indian roots.
“It’s a very sentimental collection and it’s very important to me,” Ahluwalia told PA Media. “I’m really excited for people to see our elevated take on eveningwear, we have some amazing pieces that are new territory for us.”
Through a palette of burnt earth tones, greens and ultramarine blues, Ahluwalia reflected the eclectic colors of her dual heritage, while incorporating elements of her upbringing in England.
Ahluwalia’s mother, who prefers not to be named, watched the show with trepidation. Before it began, she told PA Media: “I never watch anything before the show – even backstage I walk past the clothes and don’t look at them, so I’m excited to see how she has adapted this personal concept. I’m incredibly proud of her.”
A leaf motif was printed on knee-high boots and fitted dresses, which came from the wallpaper in Ahluwalia's grandparents' first English home.
Patterns taken from rugs in the designer's childhood home were also printed on pieces throughout the collection.
While literal references were employed, Ahluwalia also incorporated more conceptual homely motifs, such as deconstructed and contorted fabrics.
On two of the women’s dresses, the fabric was stretched, pulled and knotted. According to Ahulwalia, this was a reference to her grandmother’s experience of still feeling an emotional pull towards her home in India, no matter how long she had lived in the UK.
The abundance of layers was not only clear in Ahluwalia's statement, but also on the catwalk adorned with several kilim rugs, which some models found difficult to manage.
Ahluwalia also presented some glamorous evening ensembles, which had not really been seen in the designer's previous collections.
The garments were adorned with beaded vests and matching wigs made entirely of thick multi-coloured beads, which crackled loudly as the models walked down the catwalk.
“It is very common in Nigerian homes to have beaded curtains at entryways,” explained Arielle Uno Ekwang, a design intern at Ahluwalia.
“It’s amazing to see how Priya has incorporated that as a design detail, not just in the vests and wigs, but also in the trim on the pants and skirts.”
Jewels and beads dotted the runway beyond the ensembles, as Ahluwalia collaborated with Danish jewelry brand, Pandora, for the collection.
Celebrities including model Leomie Anderson, Bridgerton star Charithra Chandran and musician Ghetts have all worn Ahluwalia’s designs in the past, and there was a familiar face on the catwalk this season too: British rapper Wretch 32 walked the show in a sharply tailored contrasting suit jacket and trousers.
The makeup looks were also inspired by Ahluwalia's Nigerian and Indian roots.
“I really wanted to think about the people who actually live in Priya’s home countries and what they really look like,” said MAC senior makeup artist Mata Marielle.
“Those countries can be incredibly hot, so the first thing that came to mind was 'sun-drenched.'
“We gave the models a radiant tan [through MAC’s luminous lift concealer]The girls used a warm lip line that mimicked a sultry sunset and added plenty of bronzer and blush to all the models to give them a homely warmth.”
