The New Year is approaching and our wine fixations inevitably become effervescent. Traditionally, that would mean Champagne, the world's quintessential sparkling wine, synonymous with celebration, luxury, extravagance, etc.
Champagne, both the wine and the region, has had few rivals in style and grandeur for generations. It has had competitors on the market, such as Prosecco and Cava, but they do not come close to matching it in quality. Until recently, California sparkling wines also generally couldn't compete, except as poor substitutes for Champagne.
But not anymore. A new generation of California sparkling wine has emerged over the past decade, and its energy and quality are palpable. Here's a roundup of California's New Wave sparkling, producers that are rivaling Champagne.
NV Racines Sta. Grand Rita Hills Reserve
Multi-vintage, mostly from 2020, made entirely with Chardonnay according to the traditional Champenoise method. It is smooth and elegant, with a precise mineral touch and aromas of hazelnuts and pear beneath green citrus flavors.
At Wine Country in Signal Hill and Wine House in Los Angeles, about $65.
2017 Caraccioli Santa Lucia Highlands Escolle Vineyard Brut Rosé
A single vineyard rosé of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Monterey County. After 50 months on the lees, it is toasted and lush, with an aroma of candied nuts and pale cherry.
At Wine House, about $70.
2017 Patz & Hall North Coast Brut
All Chardonnay from James Hall, a master of variety. It's creamy with toasted lees and caramel notes overlaying a Meyer lemon core. That citrus finish gives nerve and tension to the wine.
At Wally's in Los Angeles, about $65.
NV Blackbird Vineyards Starling Sonoma County Blanc des Blanc
Yellow apple flesh and a creamy, juicy caramel note give way to a powdery, zinc-like touch, which finishes dry and with a touch of spice, a lot of value for oysters.
Available at Wally's, about $50.
2020 Under the Wire Mendocino Alder Springs Vineyard
This wine shows a strong sense of place: a very fresh and meticulously cultivated vineyard in Mendo. It is taut and earthy, with aromas of lees, earth and stones, pale berry flavors and salinity of sea air.
At K&L Wines, Lou Wine Shop and Lincoln Fine Wines in Los Angeles, around $70.
NV Carboniste California Modern Sparkling Wine V.20
With a slightly amber hue, this wine walks the line between sunny red apple aromas and exotic toasted lees accents. Its flavors are both juicy and extravagant, with a nutty caramel finish.
At Total Wine & More (multiple locations), Mission Wine in Pasadena, and Wine Country, about $35.
2016 Sandhi Sta. Rita Hills Blanc de Noirs
This wine is a living thread of tension and freshness, with light aromas of brioche and Fuji apple, on the mid-palate it has juicy and delicious flavors.
At Kogod Wine Merchants (online) and Lompoc Winery, about $75.
NV Cruse Tradition California Rosé
The color of a faded rose petal, it has a powdery chaparral aroma reminiscent of summer days. The flavors are generous with red fruits and pomegranate, slightly salty, with a taut texture and a lean finish.
At Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, Wine Exchange in Santa Ana and K&L Wines, around $50.
Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Clark Road Sparkling Wine 2020
It starts toasty and bright, with crisp apple acidity. Its flavors are rounder, with a good mid-palate sweetness and just a touch of depth and grip from Pinot Noir.
At K&L Wines, about $55.
2020 Forlorn Hope Rorick Heritage Vineyard Sierra Foothills Sparkling Mondeuse
Woody and tasty, it smells of herbs and leaves, with a seductively creamy midpalate and a touch slightly reminiscent of Italian bitters. Drink it with game or lamb.
At Buvons Wine in Long Beach, about $50.
