Inn-Hopping Hike from Santa Monica to San Diego


Approaching Laguna Beach on the Newport Beach to San Clemente hike.

(Tom Courtney)

This charming ride will transport you back to the 1930s, through popular Laguna Beach, with its crowds of tourists and elegant art galleries, to Dana Point, where fishing tourism is big business, and finally to San Clemente, equally Known for its majestic Spanish architecture and surf breaks.

As you stroll along the rocky shores, you'll catch glimpses of seabirds, crabs, lobsters and seals. Here you'll be able to swim at some of the best beaches Orange County has to offer, so pack your bikini and swimsuit.

One of the best parts of this hike is getting out of the sand and venturing out into the Dana Point Headlands Conservation Areaa 60-acre area with a preserve and trail system. The trails are flanked by protected fields of unique native plants and animals (the Courtneys and I saw an adorable illustrated sign warning us to stay quiet, because the Pacific pocket mouse might be sleeping nearby), and you'll enjoy sparkling views of the ocean while touring the reserve.

“There are so many beautiful gardens along the Southern California coast, but few protect native habitat,” says Heidi Courtney. “It is exciting to walk through the reserve with more than 150 native plants and animals. Birds and other pollinators flock to sage, buckwheat, and yarrow. The dramatic silver-leaved Dudleya were blooming gloriously.”

Day 1: Newport Beach to Crystal Cove: 7.2 miles

the route: Start your day with a lazy stroll through the historic Dory's Fleet Market, checking out the crab and seafood offerings. For early risers, the market opens at 5:30 a.m. Grab a cronut at the 24-hour Seaside Donuts Bakery, or an açai bowl and a Nutella croissant at the Newport Coffee Company.which opens at 6:30 a.m. Fueled by caffeine, begin your walk along the beach or along the paved path to Palm Street, where you will turn left. Head to the port and then take the $1 ferry to Balboa Island. Turn right onto South Bay Front after exiting the ferry, then turn left onto Marine Avenue and cross the bridge to the mainland. Turn right onto Bayside Drive, then walk down that street past the yacht clubs and the Coast Guard station, turning right onto Fernleaf Avenue, which will take you to Ocean Boulevard. There, you will turn left and go down the stairs in front of Heliotrope Avenue to Corona Del Mar State Beach. From here, you can reach Crystal Cove if the tide is low; otherwise, walk down Ocean Boulevard, turn left on Poppy Avenue, take the PCH and head up the paved trail just after Pelican Point Drive, until you reach the Crystal Cove State Park Historic District.

The front of two of the Crystal Cove beach cabins.

Crystal Cove Beach Cottages on the hike from Newport Beach to San Clemente.

(Tom Courtney)

where to stay: He Crystal Cove Beach Cabins are a charming collection of 1920s and 1930s cabins and the setting for Hollywood movies such as 1920's “Treasure Island.” (If you can't get reservations here, start early and combine day 1 and day 2 hikes at an 11.8 mile walk). Cabins are assigned on a first-come, first-served basis, so book well in advance. You can get a dorm-style room for $50 to $146 per night or splurge on a cabin all to yourself for $228 to $320 per night.

where to eat: Order ahi tacos, fried calamari, and clam chowder at the Waveitself a quaint cabin with outdoor seating and spectacular sunset views.

Day 2: Crystal Cove to Laguna Beach. 4.6 miles

the route: Go as far along the beach as you can until the cliffs block it, about 1.7 miles, then climb the hillside to the PCH and continue along the sidewalk until you reach Crescent Bay Drive. Turn right and head to the end of the path, where you will take two stairs to Crescent Bay. If low tide is your friend, hike along picturesque rocky points and look for tide pools filled with sea creatures along the way; If not, climb the stairs just before Crescent Bay to the road and take the first right, passing through Heisler Park, where, depending on the time of year, you'll find flower gardens filled with roses, birds of paradise and deep blue of Pride. from Madeira, then take the stairs at the end towards Laguna Beach. Consider staying an extra day in Laguna Beach to enjoy all the delights it has to offer, including live music, dozens of independent art galleries, and, if the time is right, the Parade of the Masterswhere costumed actors recreate classic and contemporary paintings to the sound of a live orchestra.

where to stay: Book a room or bungalow with a private patio in the Pacific Hotel ($201 to $250, weekdays, $209 to $274 weekends), a modern stay right on Laguna Beach's busy main drag with ocean views from many rooms.

where to eat: The whole day Terrace in Laguna Beach (try the juicy mahi mahi sandwich) and upscale seafood spot Driftwood kitchen Both are just a few steps from the hotel.

Day 3: Laguna Beach to Dana Point. 9.5 miles

the route: Enjoy your morning coffee while watching some of the best surfing along Southern California's 200-mile coastline, with experts further out catching waves up to 10 to 15 feet. Walk across the sand of Laguna Beach, past Halfway Rock to Cactus Point, the latter a rocky promontory with a tunnel near the surf line. Say goodbye to the beach for now just before Cactus Point, heading up the black-railed stairs to Pearl Street and then turning right onto Ocean Way. Turn left on Moss Street and right on PCH, right on Victoria Drive and then take the stairs to wide, sandy Victoria Beach. It curves around Golf Island, a narrow peninsula with heavy rock. Walk to Aliso Beach and climb the stairs to the cliffs if the tide is high; there you will find the Lost Pier Cafea snack bar with burgers and other casual food. Go around Aliso Point until you reach a second flight of stairs that will take you to West Street. Turn right onto PCH and walk to Ritz Carlton Drive. Turn right and stop by the Ritz-Carlton (or you can stay overnight, adding three miles to your day 4 hike and $2,000 to your budget). Take the stairs at the end of the parking lot to Bluff Park and Salt Creek Beach Park, then walk along the shoreline past a paved road that juts into the beach. You can't continue along the shore because of the Dana Point cliffs, so take the stairs 0.3 miles before Dana Point. At the top, continue straight down Ocean Front Lane and turn right onto Dana Strand Road. Walk to the end, passing through a metal gate that will take you directly to the Dana Point Preserve and its visitor center. After a brief stop there to learn about the flora and fauna of the reserve, turn right on Cove Road and head to Dana Point Harbor.

where to stay: He Dana Point Marina Inn ($125 to $175 weekdays, $144 to $279 weekends), a modest motel with a small pool and free continental breakfast.

where to eat: Bite into crispy Alaskan cod and French fries under heat lamps at Jon's Fish Marketa cafe that is a seven-minute walk from the inn.

Day 4: Dana Point to San Clemente. 6 miles.

A lone hiker walks along San Clemente State Beach.

San Clemente State Beach.

(Tom Courtney)

the route: Today's walk will take you along a stretch of wide sandy beaches. You'll go from Doheny State Beach to Capistrano State Park, from Poche Beach to San Clemente City Beach.

Start the day by returning from your hotel to the shore at Doheny State Beach. If the tide is low, you can cross the San Juan Creek and follow the coast until you reach the San Clemente pier. If it is high tide and you are blocked by the boardwalk protecting the beach development near Poche Beach, move away from the beach towards the Amtrak tracks, step carefully on them and towards Park Lantern, walk down that street until it turns on Coast Highway. Protected Trail. Alternatively, you can follow a paved bike path from Doheny State Beach to the pier.

where to stay: He Tropicana House ($289 weekdays, $339 weekends) at the San Clemente dock.

where to eat– Stroll the picturesque pier at sunset and request a patio table at the Fisherman's restaurant and barwhere burgers, poke bowls and local Left Coast lagers satisfy big appetites.

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