Zegna: redo, remodel and remodel

The most inventive new sartorial silhouette and the most far-reaching new fabrics came together in an excellent Zegna collection that closed the Milan men's season with panache on Monday afternoon.

The choice of location was perfect: Allianz MiCo, Europe's largest conference center that includes a huge new series of exhibition halls and views of curvaceous apartment buildings, the luxury City Life shopping center and a trio of new skyscrapers slightly distorted. Reflecting the novel shapes of the latest collection designed by Zegna's creative director, Alessandro Sartori.

Popular local media would suggest that the Italian economy is struggling. One gets little sense of that in this booming new corner of Milan, the country's richest city. Or in this collection, which seemed like a clever tutorial on a new fashion vocabulary.

It took place in a vast space, in the center of which was an immense pile of saffron-colored cashmere wool, to which were added flakes that fell throughout the show. A bright symbol of the Oasi Zegna brand concept.

Zegna used to focus on classic, modern suits for busy guys, and you can still find impeccable tailoring in-house. But with the changing trend of men demanding high-end casual luxury, Sartori has achieved an impressive transformation across the brand's entire aesthetic.

His standout idea this Monday was work jackets and outer shirts, all with patch pockets, wide sleeves and generous proportions. Sartori offered many styles with detachable collars, or collar options in either rawhide or stiff felt, giving a sharp finish to the jawline. By removing the collar, the jacket became a vest to wear under a coat.

And his pants were simply the best in Italy. Cleverly stitched and double pleated wide leg pants at the front and back, creating additional seams so the pants held their shape beautifully.

Collectively created in a striking color palette: ice, butter, burnt orange, asphalt and the darkest blue. The latter hue has been seen on several fantastic coats, from a roomy city coat with raglan sleeves to a cashmere quilted coat with an almost suede feel, the interior of which was made of cashmere flounces.

“I wanted everything to be made from natural materials: washed cashmere, treated cashmere, quilted cashmere, beaver cashmere and recycled cashmere,” Sartori explained in a preview before the show.

With all kinds of layers, like the ribbed sweater over a light peacoat over a Henley. All used in a great casting, with several girls and veteran male stars, many of them sporting the new minimalist bridgeless glasses from the Marcolin license.

Even the music was on point, a bespoke soundtrack by British producer James Blake, revolving around its theme. Friends who break your heart.

A standing ovation greeted Sartori's bow led by Zegna ambassador Mads Mikkelsen and backed by the brand's latest fan, Michael Fassbender. The German-Irish actor looks super cool in a voluminous coat in the pale cement tone that designer Ale loves.

Two decades ago, Sartori rose to near-fame with his revolutionary cut that turned the Z Zegna runway collection into a cult show. He then set the fashion agenda and does it again with Oasi Zegna.

And now we're going to Paris.