Zegna organized his first outside parade on Italy on Wednesday, and his choice of Dubai said a large amount about the ambitions of the brand, and fashion, for the future.
Presented within Dubai's opera, the collection was the last expression of subtle and subversive Chic by the creative director of the Alessandro Sartori house. Once on a sandy turn run under the palms and local trees and foliage, in the opera bowls, a bright steel structure built between the highest building in the world, the Burj el Khalifa and the Dubai shopping center, where Zegna has its largest flagship in the world.
Other brands may be obsessed with the growth of its electronic commerce business, but Zegna is very interested in expanding its retail footprint in the region. With four stores already in Dubai, and half a dozen opening in next year in Saudi and other Gulf states.
Most of the audience, which included 150 Vís and Zegna Mikkelsen ambassador were dressed in Zegna from head to toe. We count more than 100 pairs of iconic Zegna Triple X shoes in the front row.
Few designers have redefined the male pandemic closet rather than Sartori, whose mixture of sustainable and recycled fabrics, spicy deconstruction and lost silhouettes have made it one of the most influential male clothing designers of fashion today.
Zegna once was the provider of the definition of high -end for young executives and pushing decision makers. You still saw them today, but with a much more perceptual, discreet and insufficient style.
For more funny moments, Sartori opened with a series of vertical striped pajamas costumes of an inch in light silk. Made with the same fabric as the inner lining, the silk wrinkled slightly around the rafish style torso.
Ale, as all his friends call him, also experimented with a paper thread, which is combined with leather to invent notable cardigans and suede jerkins. True Cutura from above Mensa.
Other new and bright fabrics included a Tweed silk, with a strange hand of its irregular thread, used in a great verification suit; and a series of cold Smocks in linen/wool Jacquard, Sanded hemp or second skin suede.
More than half of the collection presented leather. Details include leather buttons, suede pocket moldings, reverse leather jacket necklaces, cardigan crocodile pipes. The entire appearance included suede villeros of second skin or perforated leather joy, to hyper malleable moccasins. Built in what the Italians called Panama Construction, where they can almost be wrapped as socks.
“It is about developing hybrid fabrics to build clothes without complications in terms of attitude. Layers, coincide with different components and collect to create their own wardrobe,” Sartori explained, in a previous view prior to the show.
His color palette was from Bordeaux and Burgundy, to strings, cognac, licorice or spicy checks. From desert tones to a series of vegetables that ripped in the green hills of Piedmont, where the founder Ermenegildo dreamed for the first time with an Oasi Zegna. In 1910, he literally bought a mountain, 30 times the size of Central Park or 12 as large as the Boulogne Bois, where the brand would eventually plant more than 500,000 trees.
Referenced in a series that included a jacket tailored to four pockets in essential acid. Or the latest versions, in linen, technological silk, denim or crocodile, of the contest jacket, the exclusive garment of Ermenegildo, a blazer cut with a high Nehru necklace.
After the show, the guests could walk to Villa Zegna, an elegant installation and narration of the origins and the DNA of the brand inside the opera, which included the Ermenegildo desktop, the reading glasses, the carved leather chair and the Higurg silk hat.
The third iteration of Villa Zegna, after Shanghai and New York, this unique emerging club lasts for a week in Dubai. It contains a rich Zegna fashion selection, where they can order a few selected Virtes, or have made to measure from scratch, the entire wardrobe. Including another outstanding contest jacket made at Soft Violet Crocodile.
The guests could also experience the last colony of Zegna, also called il conte. Inspired by a visit to the Key Zegna plant in Trivero, in the Piedmontese foothills of the Alps. Mix the wound smell of the factory with Tahitian vanilla, leather, pachulí and benzoin resin. Produced in a limited edition of only 300 flaccons made of handwaded Murano glass with a wooden lid and a family crest. Like the collection, an intelligent exhibition of the Italian Vivre Art, lifestyle and special sense of tradition.
Although the approach this Wednesday was in the Catwalk show, which opened with a special composition by James Blake, playing only in a tail piano, before appearing in a lush orchestration soundtrack, a combination of Polish composer Abel Korzeniowski of “Dance for Me Wallis” and Max Richter “On The Nature of Daylight”.
In total, Sartori's last intelligent fashion statement, one of the most successful fashion commercial designers, as well as an innovative talent.
During a difficult time for high fashion, the Ermenegildo Zegna group, which also includes Tom Ford and Thom Browne, obtained profits of € 184 million, and obtained a 2% increase in revenue to 1,945 billion euros in 2025, where Zegna represents 69% of the revenues and 85% of the dependencies.
In a word, the most successful brand pivot in male clothes today in the last half decade. All presented in the last Oasis of Zegna or Oasi.
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