This week's New York collections have been all about homecomings. Given the sad state of things in the world (wars, a turbulent economy), designers are looking inward and focusing on garments that wrap around the body like a security blanket. Who better to tackle this than a knitwear specialist?
Henry Zankov was certainly up to the challenge with “Hold Me Closer,” a reflection on his home life in Brooklyn. Upon returning there from Rhode Island last year, Zankov said he was immediately impressed by the warmth of his friends and the general energy of the city. “This idea of reconnecting with people and feeling embraced really fueled me,” he explained.
In sharing the reward, Zankov left one feeling more satiated after this Sarrett-Lehigh performance than last season. In addition to its fine ribbed fabrics with contrasting stripes in spicy colors and sportier perforated jacquards, there were wrap-around shapes with pockets, integrated scarf attachments and huge holes at the back or sides, cleverly inviting hands to play with. style possibilities or reach for impromptu hugs. They came in calming stone colors like quartz and a new anthracite gray electrified by touches of vermilion, violet and Kelly green.
Zankov painted the wooden pieces that decorated the informal catwalk himself and invited others to collaborate as well. Her friend and jeweler Presley Oldham accessorized things with baroque pearl chokers, silver wishbone pendants and Murano glass necklaces, while natural dye artist Ian Allen Greer lent his shibori technique to a merino skirt and a house dress in deep burgundy color. Tapping into his tribal feel, Zankov came up with pom-poms attached to black and ecru vests, delightful dropped-shoulder cardigans, and scarves with ridged stitches that look like rugs.
Four years into his brand, Zankov has proven he has the sweater thing under control. His images remain strong season after season and his ingenious eye for touch and proportion is what keeps the overall look from looking sloppy. But he always leaves one wondering what else he might have up his knitted sleeve. “A lot of people have been asking me about completing the costume,” he said.
Here, she provided some answers, adding longer ribbed hems as a subtle evening touch and knits in the form of butter-yellow puddle pants and a mossy cocoon coat with a draped shawl collar. He was crave-worthy and stole the show with a more cosmopolitan touch. Alpaca tunics aside, it was also the only true piece of clothing; Maybe she should pay more attention to that.
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