Young designers face cost dilemma at London Fashion Week

To show or not to show at London Fashion Week? That was the question at this year's event for young independent brands facing higher post-Brexit costs and soaring inflation.

Since its inception 40 years ago, London Fashion Week has provided a platform for emerging designers fresh from prestigious schools such as Central Saint Martins, alongside big players such as Burberry.

However, a cost-of-living crisis in Britain prolonged by persistently high inflation and the financial fallout from the country's exit from the EU presents “incredibly challenging” times for young brands, according to the chief executive of the British Fashion Council, Caroline Rush.

London Fashion Week began on Friday, shortly after official data revealed Britain was in recession, as high inflation takes its toll on households and businesses. The event concluded on Tuesday, while the second LFW of the year is scheduled for September.

Skip a show

This year's fashion week saw the return of Dublin-born menswear designer Robyn Lynch and fellow Turkish-British Dilara Findikoglu, both emerging and popular talents. The latter's provocative feminine clothing has made Findikoglu one of the most anticipated names to show her latest designs. However, she canceled her September 2023 London show at the last minute, telling the New York Times: “We just don't have the finances for a show right now.”

Designers tend to book both shows in a single year.

This time, the KWK by KAY KWOK show was canceled after key pieces that were due to appear on the London runway were destroyed following an unspecified incident at a factory in China. Meanwhile, Nensi Dojaka did not show up to the last show.

Rush downplayed the absences. “There is nothing wrong with skipping a season. This doesn't mean you don't continue to grow,” he told AFP. “Sometimes designers are offered a free place in another city… which could take them away from London,” he added.

The Feben brand decided to present in Milan for the current season, thanks to the support of the Italian fashion house Dolce & Gabbana.

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Talent incubator

One way for emerging talent to present their work without incurring large costs is to grant them a place in the British Fashion Council's “NEWGEN” or talent incubator program, which recently celebrated its 30th anniversary.

The lucky ones who get a spot receive a subsidy “to help them produce their collection,” Rush explained. “They receive mentoring on what it means to run a business, cash flow, management, margin and export readiness.”

The program also offers a venue to showcase at London Fashion Week, which could be, for example, a hotel close to the main stage. “So, they don't have the cost of the venue, the lighting, the security, health and safety, the backstage infrastructure and the frontstage infrastructure,” Rush said.

In total, the Council is offering a three-year grant totaling around £80,000 ($101,000), which can be used to develop designs and brands, without worrying about the cost of a basic show of around £50,000.

Beneficiaries include Simone Rocha and JW Anderson, while there are other incubation programs helping young designers in the UK, such as Fashion East. By Emeline BURCKEL