Yohji Yamamoto and Victoria Beckham

Fortunately, there is life outside LVMH, especially at the grand Japanese house of Yohji Yamamoto and the now-burgeoning Victoria Beckham, who put on impressive shows on a very humid Friday night in Paris.

Yohji Yamamoto: fragmented fashion
Outside Paris City Hall there was a downpour of biblical proportions, inside, under a giant gold-frescoed ceiling, there was a moment of avant-garde grace from Yohji Yamamoto.

A collection made entirely of scraps, fragments and new fabric scraps, although none of them recycled. Black linen coat-dresses, cut at the sleeves, cut into different lengths and sewn with rough stitching. Professor's robes pleated, almost falling apart; Worn with hand painted tights. Splendid morning suits with satin lapels and better trimmed shoulders to let satin bows emerge. Ruffled damsel and worn dresses, all tied together with huge knots.

A dark but beautiful vision, fragments united to create heroic characters. Almost everything done in black, except for a ghostly dress of faded, puffy white lace made from rivulets of chiffon.

The cast, made up of voluminous, unrolling courtesan wigs and numerous braids, walked slowly under the opulent golden chandeliers. The concept telegraphed by Yamamoto's invitation: broken shards of plastic mirrors scattered across a large black sheet.

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All backed by a live piano recital before Yamamoto sang a rock ballad of his own composition. Leading to an all-red finale, suddenly it's all fitted, sleeveless coat dresses. After which, Yohji bowed, inviting the pianist to come up to the catwalk to share the applause, the audience's applause turning into prolonged cheers.

Arguably not a vintage Yohji show, but a moment of disheveled elegance after a day in the hustle and bustle of Paris.

Victoria Beckham: bold in the trifle

Madame Beckham continues to up her game, especially this season, with the biggest show of her career under the stars on the grounds of the Château de Bagatelle.

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Guests braved the rain to sit under a huge cathedral-like transparent tent in a garden that was the same location as one of John Galliano's biggest couture shows for Dior in the late '90s. The beaus served spicy margaritas as the audience gathered in the chilly air, many of them wrapped in green and beige Victoria Beckham blankets, thoughtfully provided by the host.

The elegant surroundings underline Beckham's steady rise in quality and presentation since joining top French management and new partners Neo.

Eva Longoria appeared, as did Victoria's already famous children. But the litmus test of this season was whether this event would pass the test of the French critical establishment.

Victoria's design self-confidence is clearly growing as she took many risks. Not all of them worked, but their very presence elevated the collection.

Plus, at a time when many talented designers are creating off-the-body clothing, Beckham had some of the coolest examples. Opening with perfectly cut long pants, always a great VB basic, but this season it is finished with a waistband with a shirt collar or with a vertically open cut. All finished off with sculpted and gathered tops made from silk muslin or technical viscose blends. Dresses with rigid bodices were transformed into fluid chiffon.

VB then hit several home runs with some fantastic camouflage floral print flowy dresses. And an emerald green bias-cut red carpet dress worn by Gigi Hadid.

In terms of tailoring, he also broke new ground with wide white doublets worn without skirts or trousers; and some elegant futuristic surgeon's robes. Or with jean jackets with cinched shoulders and giant pants, all in pale gray.

Not all of her experiments with semi-sheer worked, and the styling trick of putting lots of new bags in mesh bags seemed forced. Furthermore, the two final looks, transparent dresses finished with stripes of sequins, were true scandals. Sadly, leaving the final model a lost soul wandering 30 meters behind in the end.

That said, even if it is not without flaws, it was an impressive statement, where one was left with the feeling that Victoria Beckham had truly arrived at the clubhouse of respected brands on the Paris catwalks.

It is no small achievement, well south.