Glenn Martens' celebration of his tenth anniversary as creative director of Y/Project did not go as expected. Forced to cancel its planned runway show, the brand gathered friends and followers for a lookbook that provides a snapshot of its creative microcosm.
Celebrities like Tyga and Charli that his father, who came to Paris to attend, also participated in the filming.
Ye also made an appearance, cementing the return to fashion she launched by appearing at the Marni show during Milan Fashion Week. “He's been following me for 10 years,” objected Martens, who has maintained friendly relations with the rapper even as brands from Balenciaga to Adidas cut ties over a series of anti-Semitic comments.
It was an unnecessary distraction from a collection that easily stood on its own merits.
The Belgian designer channeled the gothic vibe of his native Bruges with draped hoods, which came on everything from plaid shirts to faux shearling jackets and a black coat layered with tight jersey. He cited medieval monks from Umberto Eco's “The Name of the Rose,” but “Assassin's Creed” also came to mind.
For all that, there was a lightness to the designs, with Martens using Velcro straps, rather than their traditional buttons and snaps, to achieve their signature twisted constructions.
Gone are the days when the brand had to include an instruction manual with its clothing. Jeans and T-shirts came with removable panels that can be sculpted around the body with intuitive ease.
“It's true that sometimes I look at my archival photographs and I don't even know how to put them on,” Martens admits. “We worked pretty hard on that and I think that's also why the brand is doing well. We also have very good direct sales in stores because it is easier to understand.”
That proof of concept is important as Y/Project seeks an investor to help it grow its retail network and boost its nascent accessories business. This season's shoes included clear clogs, part of its ongoing partnership with Brazilian footwear brand Melissa, and a new collaboration with French outdoor brand Salomon on sneakers.
Looking back a decade, Martens described himself as “less idealistic” and more grounded in business realities, but Y/Project appears to be maturing well as it prepares for the next stage of growth.
“I think it's very important that the joy is there, always, but we have to make sure that people don't get lost in it,” he said.
