Published
October 8, 2025
The numerous debuts at the creative front of the world's main fashion houses mark a transition season in which the big trends of recent seasons prevail. However, the overall picture is evolving, infused with fresh energy and a breath of optimism, as demonstrated by the spring/summer 2026 collections presented on the catwalks in New York, London, Milan and Paris from September 11 to October 7.
The silhouette of the work girl softens, adopts a more modern and youthful attitude with a touch of audacity in looks where layers, generous volumes, transparencies, shine and fluidity take center stage.
1. The suit
A cornerstone of the women's wardrobe and a staple of power dressing, the suit is reinvented with a fresher and more relaxed, almost de-dramatized spirit. Chanel, for example, shortened the double-breasted jacket and paired it with a raw-edged wrap skirt. At Dior, the famous Bar jacket was also shortened and paired with a pleated mini skirt. The jacket was also trimmed in Max Mara and fastened with an elastic drawstring. The skirt was worn low-slung, often exposing underwear in a totally uninhibited Gen-Z spirit.
2. The curvy cut
In many collections, jackets, coats and dresses adopted the hourglass line, in a frock style like in Mugler. The silhouette, fitted at the waist, was perfectly accentuated, while the hips and shoulders were accentuated with rounded volumes. Among the many variations, Loewe applied it to leather jackets; while Anrealage even created a giant polo shirt with this shape. With the pannier dresses, also seen in several fashion shows, the appetite for the past and for the style of the 18th century was confirmed.
3. The godet skirt
The traditional godet skirt, with its undulating movement, takes on new life. It came in several versions, with wide swirls of fabric, fitted and then flared into a wavy corolla, or shorter in a skater style. In general, skirts were everywhere: pencil, ruffled, bubble, fitted, slit, or paneled. Many appeared in fun prints or bright colors, sculptural with recycled fringes, like at Bottega Veneta.
4. Maxi and mini
The maximalist trend of last season continues, with its XXL details and accessories, now linked to the opposite trend: tiny pieces through a cascade of jackets and blouses reduced to boleros and crop tops, or even bras, with strong references to the 1980s and 1990s. Not to mention the miniskirts and shorts that dominated the catwalks, from Prada to Versace, underscoring a summery and liberated spirit. With the same look, Balenciaga shrunk a T-shirt and puffed out a skirt. The waist fell inexorably until the navel was exposed in all circumstances.
5. The XXL belt buckle
Likewise, belt buckles became gigantic on Zomer, Rabanne and Vaquera. The belt continued to concern designers more than ever. It appeared in all looks and was worn visible, ideally sitting very low, while the silhouette was redrawn. Designers had fun with it: it edged a pair of leg-length pants at Acne Studios, while the belted skirt is on track to become next summer's must-have.
6. The bra
After focusing on panties last season, designers are now focusing attention on the bra, elevated to a key piece for next summer. It is combined with bikinis, in a lingerie version or as its own top, made of all materials, including leather or synthetic fur, as Givenchy dared, while Hermès adorned it with a scarf. In short, it is omnipresent in the closet.
7. The little sweater over the shoulders.
The small sweater (preferably gray) will be the essential accessory for next summer. It's making a big comeback slung over the shoulders, resurrected from the 1980s with its delightfully old-fashioned preppy vibe, as seen at Bottega Veneta. The trick is to subvert the gesture and modernize it. At Loewe it covered the bust, replacing a top. Acne Studios fixed it at the neck using porthole-shaped openings in the sleeves. No. 21 reduced it to a pair of sleeves that wrap around the neck like a scarf. At MSGM, it was fastened only on the first button. At Versace, the sweater was tied at the waist, and at Tom Ford, it was wrapped around the neck, very chic, tone on tone, over a white suit.
8. The “naked”
While an explosion of color has swept the runways, a calming neutral palette has made a parallel advance, with nude taking pride of place in next summer's wardrobe. There was no collection without some looks in beige, powder pink or flesh tones. This relaxing tone, inspired as much by cosmetics and toiletries as by raw materials, has become, with its authentic simplicity, synonymous with refinement. Camel is no longer the sole exclusive domain of the trench coat. It is now deployed in every piece, including sumptuous evening dresses, in materials ranging from chiffon to latex.
9 The striped polo
The polo shirt, with thin or bold multicolored stripes, is the practical little garment that will be all the rage next summer. A playful basic that we never get tired of, perfect for both the beach and the city. At Lacoste, the brand's star piece came in an oversized format. Issey Miyake gave it an intriguing, puffy, wrinkled volume. In Rabanne, she donned a gold metal miniskirt.
10. Front back
Couturiers love surprises. This season, in particular, the back is the focus of obsessive attention. It is suddenly exposed, partially revealed, or used to give garments a second identity, like at Vetements, where all looks appear upside down, most of the time reduced to their simplest state (underwear and tights). At Niccolò Pasqualetti, a T-shirt became a jacket; on McQueen, the back was revealed with unexpected cutouts; and in Courrèges, skirts were short in front and long in back.
This article is a machine translation.
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