Home is where the heart is for Willy Chavarría. The winner of the CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year award appeared at a prime time on the first night of New York Fashion Week in the same building where his design studio is located in Greenpoint, Brooklyn.
Their packed front row included Julia Fox, Becky G, Sam Smith, Susanne Bartsch and former club girl Amanda Lepore. The room was awash in sexy red lighting and the wooden chairs were stamped with the image of the Virgin of Guadalupe, underscoring the influence of the Catholic church and religious life on the Mexican-American designer.
The show began with a film projected on a table arranged like the Last Supper. Laying the groundwork to expand the tent, so to speak, Chavarría directed the piece with a cast of characters from her inclusive and sheltered free world, including models Paloma Elsesser and Dilone.
“I didn't want it to be a movie just about clothes. I wanted to see how clothing moves with us throughout our lives. And I also didn't want to do something that would be a distraction from reality, from the wars we're seeing and all the [stuff] in the world. Rather, I wanted it to be an awareness of how we feel, an understanding of how we feel, and at the same time point out the importance of loving each other, lifting each other up, and keeping each other safe from harm,” he said. backstage after the show.
Titled “Safe from Harm,” the film was a statement of the Chavarría brand values: a celebration of sexual freedom, queer self-expression, and harmony as one big happy, safe family.
On the runway, the designer focused on inviting more people to his brand through commercial appeal, refining his signature silhouettes and greatest hits. Oversized blazers with exaggerated shoulders and peak lapels were more body-hugging, paired with smart checked shirts with scarf ties. Floor-length double-breasted coats and slightly high-waisted pleated trousers came in houndstooth checks alongside oversized traditional checkered blazers, her signature chunky wool tracksuit, and more daring pieces like veiled baseball caps.
“I wanted to make sure I had silhouettes that could be more democratic,” said Chavarría, who just started wholesaling this season, from slim pants and refined leather jackets, from his signature bombers with just the right cut to a sleek tailored coat dress. tailored. with slightly puffed sleeves.
The line also marked the introduction of leather accessories, including an oversized briefcase, elegant crossbody bag and clutch, in classic brown and black, and an expansion of its jewelry assortment that included pearl cross necklaces and earrings. and baroque-looking stones, and leather. chains with oversized pendants with the image of the Virgin of Guadalupe, in line with the brand's spirit of Latinity.
Chavarría has entered a new realm with her industry recognition, her wholesale business, and increased celebrity exposure from Billie Eilish at the Golden Globes, to name just one. He showed that he's ready to take on all that that entails, executing a lineup that celebrated his longtime fans while also offering the chance to cultivate new ones, including more women.
