Wales Bonner: Tribute to Howard University

Grace Wales Bonner looked American this season in a collection inspired by time she spent researching at Howard University in Washington.

Founded as a theological seminary for black clergy in 1867, Howard graduates have become the nomenklatura for black American artistic, political, and intellectual leaders: governors, senators, cabinet members, and Nobel laureates.

Born in the United Kingdom, Wales Bonner's work has always been about reinterpreting Western tailoring and fashion through the prism of African and Caribbean culture. So the move across the pond to Washington marked a significant change in his style.

The result was the best collection of the Paris men's collections on Wednesday, the second day of the six-day season.

Grace's ideas are often deceptively simple, precisely because she has a very clear idea of ​​what she wants to achieve. Take her flowing, double-breasted tuxedo suit, which in a season of displaced buttons and wraparound jackets was the best yet in Europe. In addition to being the result of her association with Savile Row tailors, Anderson & Sheppard.

Playing on college references, there were rowing sweaters that read 'Howard Crew'; or houndstooth baseball jackets with “WB” embossed. While he broadcast his successful relationship with Adidas, with sweatshirts with the clover logo and the new Originals Superstars crocodile-embossed leather sneakers. Retailers tell us that the most popular sneaker in the world today is Wales Bonner's union with Adidas.

Tellingly, there was a creative nomenklatura of great black French talents sitting in the front row, from the greatest basketball player in French history, Tony Parker, to Omar Sy, the star of the hit Netflix series 'Lupin'. All sitting patiently in a former wing of the National Conservatory of Arts and Crafts, an 18th-century university created by the French Revolution to promote scientific and technical skills.

And technically, this was also an impressive show, as the designer invented a completely new garment, a safari jacket paired with a duffle coat that opened the show. He also cut languid gray flannel suits for men and women, and recreated the Canadian coat in denim. He is given a soulful touch with Kantha quilt style smocks and smocks. Worn with a prepared cast and finely made up by Lauren Parsons with flawless Sisley make up.

Tiny Wales Bonner greeted singer Yasiin Bey after he gave a big rap performance on a small stage in the middle of the runway during the show.

“Thinking about an academic wardrobe and an intellectual lineage, and also how that comes into hip hop. He was very aware of all the rap music surrounding Howard University, but also, interestingly, the combination of basketball courts and sportswear with quite stylish and practical clothing. People call Howard The Mecca, so for me it became a place of images,” Wales Bonner explained quietly after the show.