In this era of quiet luxury, what could be quieter than a library? That's exactly where Grace Wales Bonner conceived this elegant, considered collection that nods to American college life and a broader world of craftsmanship and textile tradition.
Wales Bonner did much of his work at Howard University's Moorland-Spingarn Research Center, where he analyzed the institution's sporting, musical, and literary history.
“It's a very important home for imaginative thinking,” said Wales Bonner, who certainly did a lot of that during the fall.
The show, which took place at the National Conservatory of Arts and Crafts, was smaller than its last outing (which took place in a vast courtyard under the scorching June sun) and more discreet, fitting with the mood of the collection.
He opened the show with a line of gray wool pieces, flowy suits with patch pockets, comfortable cargo pants and a pair of slacks paired with white Fair Isle knitwear, an imaginative take on the college wardrobe of yesteryear, in lieu of sneakers. of today's basic sports. jeans and baseball caps.
Wales Bonner once again worked with Savile Row tailor Anderson & Sheppard on a series of pieces, including silk-trimmed tuxedos, a cashmere double-breasted coat and a line of tweed bouclé shorts, for the most daring of wardrobes. .
That varsity richness extended to outerwear, including stylish plaid varsity jackets; Denim and leather styles with frothy shearling collars and a maize shearling coat like a burst of winter sunshine.
A vintage-style camel jacket with gold buttons and rolled-up sleeves will look good for a weekend lunch with the parents.
She also looked beyond Howard's campus toward textile design, working with antique Indian Kantha quilts on an emerald green skirt under a jacket and a jacket with a hand-dyed sleeve and pocket in a faded red hue.
Although most of these looks were unisex, there were also some women's designs, including a fantastic pair of silver Mary Janes and a wrap skirt with frayed edges. Wales Bonner said womenswear now makes up a large part of the collection and there is still room to grow.
It is also manufacturing footwear. Having cemented his relationship with Adidas Originals (those Bonner Sambas from Wales are still big sellers), he recently closed a deal with Timberland, which supplied the low-top shearling boots.
Jewelry is also a growing category and this season Wales Bonner's designs had a mystical aura. A brass brooch with feathers and glass beads, and other delicate pieces, were fruits of the designer's time deciphering the books and freeing her imagination.
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