Published
September 29, 2024
A day of contrasts where two independent labels, Vivienne Westwood and Elie Saab, demonstrated that there is a vibrant life in being self-employed, while the brands of two megagroups, Hermès and McQueen, evoked sexual independence and feminine power.
Vivienne Westwood: progressive power
One house always known for its progressive politics is Vivienne Westwood, which maintains that tradition with the location of its show: the Place de la Republique “where protests and history happen,” as creative director Andreas Kronthaler put it.
It's also good to see that the house is still called Vivienne Westwood. Rabanne lost Paco, McQueen eliminated Alexander, and Dior is usually published without Christian.
A telling fact, because this felt like a special Vivienne Westwood show, as the brand's DNA is alive and still emerging in the soul of her widowed husband and design partner, Andreas.
The name remains magical on the streets with thousands of fans waiting to see the newcomers. Going into meltdown when Cardi B arrived. After the show, the little lady made photographers swoon again, doing an elaborate series of spins backstage, dressed in a Vivienne cartoon cocktail.
Andrés titled this collection 'Calibrate', seeking “ultra-feminine…intelligent sensuality.”
She achieved this with figure-hugging sand-hued knitwear worn with a six-foot-long chain necklace; elegant crisp cotton shirt dresses with restored puff sleeves; Elegantly gathered wrap dresses, also combined with meters of pearls.
The elegant, gentlemanly tailoring with faded chalk stripes was great, as were the monogrammed silk robes and parkas. Along with low-cut leotards combined with shiny tights; cool and crazy puffy skirts; and one or two fantastic men's zoot suits.
Even the fans outside in the plaza applauded vigorously, as Andreas triumphantly strolled through the show space taking a long bow. He deserved every applause.
Hermès: Swinger singles and protesters
Dozens of single girls went on an outing or date at Hermès this season, where their fashion stroll was rudely interrupted by three individual catwalk entrances by animal rights protesters.
A strict color palette and an even stricter silhouette; bodycon, although always a quiet luxury. Women on a mission, although it is more likely to be a romantic mission than a career change. Featuring an excellent variety of soft calfskin biker jackets; long mesh skirts with zipper; sassy twill rompers.
A show interrupted three times by protesters waving banners and who were expelled amid much noise. Since this event took place inside the Garde Republicaine, where the cavalry regiment that parades with French presidents is located, this was a very bad day in terms of show security.
In stark contrast to the clothing where everything was flawless and effortless, although obviously made with great attention to detail. Leading to a grand finale: intricate and intreccio leather sheaths or tunics and short skirts worn with riding boots. Never in the history of Hermès have we seen so much skin at a show.
And in case you didn't get the message, on the soundtrack Mick Jagger crooned: “The smell of you baby, my senses, my senses be praised. Kiss and run, kiss and run.”
Like we said for girls on a mission: late at night.
Elie Saab: Beauty of Lebanon in a dark hour
Grace under pressure is the true mark of a gentleman, a saying that came to mind while viewing an excellent collection by Lebanese designer Elie Saab today.
While his hometown of Beirut suffers terrible air raids and his grandparents had to leave the capital in search of safety, Saab managed to finish a collection and present it inside the Palais de Tokyo on Saturday afternoon.
It turned out to be one of her best shows in years, starting with fantastic beach and pool looks; excellent lien pantsuits; super beachy cocktail mesh dresses and breezy linen safari jackets. A great wardrobe for a day on the beach in Byblos, Mykonos or St Tropez, and light years away from the bombed-out cityscapes seen in Lebanon today.
Saab reminds us of the incredible skill of its Lebanese artisans, while going up two gears with some majestic silk chiffon tunics finished with raffia and beaded details; or rather amazing columns of sequin-patterned bucolic gardens.
Images that earned Saab a standing ovation, prolonged cheers and left several customers visibly crying.
“I just wanted to show a different side of Lebanon, present the good things about my country,” Elie said after the show.
McQueen: Banshees in Fine Arts
McQueen completed the day with a show dedicated to the most Irish myth: the lost soul. An ideal image for a house like McQueen of strong women with magical powers. Originating from Gaelic bean yesBanshee, or Fairy Mound Woman, became known as the female spirit who sang laments at funerals or even heralded the coming of death.
Presented inside the Beaux Arts, which appeared to be under renovation. But it was actually a Tom Scutt installation. Who used replicas to make it look like McQueen had torn up the center tile floor and built an all-steel track. Everything covered by dry ice at the show.
Designer Sean McGirr draws on McQueen's famous tailoring techniques in tailored suits, cut with large lapels and lightly gathered to give them waves and plenty of strength. Used with 15-inch-long collars on men's shirts; or tuxedo shirts with piqué collars and collars topped with belts. The cast walked in wooden-soled platform boots or sandals with belt loops.
Although the key to the show was the great image creation: truly beautiful rag doll dresses of torn chiffon and Swarovski crystals. A trio of bright white ripped tulle dresses, one of them topped with a dazzling gold sequin dress with a bandolier collar. Climaxing in a silver mesh and crystal column covering from head to toe: a beautiful banshee if ever there was one.
The show marked McGirr's second for the house, and he certainly showed tonight that he has the design chops to carry this house.
His bow was met with loud cheers and a hint of a banshee moan. This is an appointment Kering bosses got right.
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