Virginie Viard did not show up to her last Chanel show

If Chanel's latest haute couture at the Palais Garnier on Tuesday seemed like a funeral, that's because it was. The house's outgoing couturier, Virginie Viard, was not even at the opera.

With a somber staging, this spring-summer 2024/25 the curtain came down on Viard's five-and-a-half-year reign at Chanel. And her first and last layered black satin look would have been perfect for a Doge's funeral in Venice.

On June 6, the house announced that Viard would be leaving the house, although without naming his successor. Historically, outgoing designers – especially from major fashion houses – typically stage a major final show, gritting their teeth even before taking their final bow.

Not Viard, who was reportedly so shocked by the decision to fire her that she quickly emptied her office at Chanel's rue Cambon headquarters, and left in a huff.

And in the end, this collection was completed by Chanel's in-house design team and, in fact, while far from a vintage collection, it was quite good.

Guests arrived at the first of two morning shows in a somber mood. Added to this was the strange decision to install a false ceiling, cutting off the famous frescoes of the magnificent opera house. The strangest thing is that the color chosen was very close to the intense violet that Sabato Del Sarno has made his fetish color for Gucci.

Ambassadors like Keira Knightley or stars like Michelle Williams, Olivia Dean, Griff and filmmaker Audrey Diwan, all sitting on red velvet armchairs in a dark atmosphere. There is no trace of the traditional show program in every seat on a haute couture catwalk.

A show that opened with the cult rock ballad from the 60s. Compassion by rare bird. The lyrics said it all: “In the cold and the dark 'cause there's not enough love to go around.”

The models walked around in a series of new outfits: simple jackets, without four pockets, with scalloped collars and braid, combined with pleated skirts that ended at the knee.

Followed by some classic Coco jackets, albeit with short funnel collars and flap pockets, some in shades of aubergine and Queen of England peach.

Starring several metallic cocktails cut with leg of lamb sleeve; and a fabulous raw latex dress topped with white coq feathers and a sequined bra.

Chanel has been patron of the Paris National Opera since 2023 and has hosted the opening gala of the dance season since 2018. Coco's ties to dance go back much further. And the collection made nods to ballets through a tutu and Pierrot costumes. The blue train (1924) and Apollon Musagete (1928) – for which he created the revolutionary costumes.

Before a pitch-black ending, a group pose by the cast on the marble staircase of the Palais Garnier and the realization that Viard would not be taking a final bow.

Viard, who succeeded his former boss Karl Lagerfeld in 2019 following his death, oversaw a period of sustained growth and rising revenues at Chanel. Although the brand had clearly lost strength in recent seasons. There's no word on who or when Chanel will announce a successor, but the current favorite is Hedi Slimane, the creative director of Celine and the man who used to dress Karl.

A silent exit from the opera. Chanel often gives each guest a bottle of a great new fragrance upon leaving a couture show. This time, all they got was a little lipstick.