“The spring, the last collection, was mainly focused on the uniform and I wanted to continue with that, but I was thinking, 'What is a woman's wardrobe?' For all the women; one more day [feel] and seven days a week, for all aspects of your life. Starting off that way, wanting it to feel very relaxed,” Theory business and creative director Jeffrey Kalinsky said during a preview of Theory’s fall collection. While spring was all about creating the perfect red, fall was all about the perfect camel and leopard print.
In that sense, modern remained a key word. Kalinsky's line began with three styles in the new camel color, which he said he wore as much as possible because “it looks expensive,” evidenced by a relaxed double-faced trench coat over new baggy five-pocket flannel pants (which later they were seen in dark color). washed denim), cashmere turtleneck, flat boots and a fantastic new chocolate brown suede hobo bag. The idea expanded from suits to outerwear, looking especially simple and elegant in the form of a camel button-down shirt and a midi-length slacks skirt (a cropped version of last fall's popular maxi version).
“It's an evolution and things work,” he said, expressing the importance of creating new iterations of successful styles, which is also seen in new knit sweaters and polos; poplin shirts; tailoring (one jacket in particular had high-performance technical lining); handbags; sturdy footwear and outer clothing. “The general idea of wearing a uniform and the monochrome feel has worked very well.”
Two years later, Kalinsky's point of view remains strong and direct. While many looks continued to maintain its knack for head-to-toe monochromatic dressing (a gray flannel maxi shirt over ultra-wide-leg trousers), the collection's shades of black, white, navy, army green and camel were also mixed into Layers to further emphasize versatile wardrobe.
In 24 styles, Kalinsky's modern codes offered something for everyone with relaxed, refined ease.
For more New York Fashion Week reviews, click here.
