Published
October 14, 2024
While the planet faces crises, conflicts and climate catastrophes, the fashion industry moves forward, protected within its bubble as if nothing had happened. Looking ahead to next summer, sober luxury evolves towards a more sophisticated and elegant silhouette, maintaining comfort and a certain minimalism.
The Fashion Weeks dedicated to women's ready-to-wear for Spring/Summer 2025 have given way to two strong trends that often intermingle: on the one hand, the powerful, free and independent woman, characterized by suits and blazers with pronounced shoulders and wide shoulders. leg pants; On the other hand, a more feminine vein that has paraded on the catwalks in New York, London, Milan and Paris from September 6 to October 1, 2024, through fluid, transparent and light outfits. Sometimes romantic, with ruffles, ruffles and loose ribbons, sometimes hypersexy, with a boudoir spirit often infused with humor.
1. working girl
The designers are opting for very masculine tailoring for next summer with flannel or heavy canvas suits, wide pants and blazers with wide and marked shoulders, in the purest eighties style that celebrate the return of the working girl, seen at Stella McCartney, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and Jil Sander. This fall wardrobe was often revised and lightened with new cuts and constructions, as attested to by Ujoh and Lutz Huelle. The vest of the three-piece suit was worn as a top. At McQueen it was even trimmed with lace. The jacket was sleeveless or draped, as seen on Uma Wang or Calcaterra. The men's jacket paired with a simple jumpsuit, shorts or trunks, a trend from previous seasons, continued to prevail, while banking stripes were ubiquitous, even in Khaite's black chiffon dresses.
2. The peplum dress
The waist was accentuated through all kinds of volumes created through ruching, ruffles, fringes, layers, sculptural construction and, above all, peplums that puff out at the sides with a retro touch, especially at Bally, Carven, Rokh, Uma Wang and Sacai. . The waist was also highlighted with ornate or rhinestone belts, or by the puffed hips of extra-wide harem pants or balloon pants.
3. white
The total white look was present in all the collections, a sign of purity, but also a symbol of peace. It was found in the classic pantsuit, but also in satin slip dresses, like those of Gabriela Hearst, and simple, embroidered cotton dresses reminiscent of grandmother's nightgowns, like those of Miu Miu. Comme des Garçons offered very voluminous white dresses or ones resembling a Greek column or whipped cream cakes. Not forgetting the vestal tunics and large sheets that wrapped the body in improvised outfits, thanks to Carven, Coperni, Christian Wijnants, Moschino, Sportmax, Issey Miyake and Calcaterra.
4. Lingerie and garters
Bodysuits, corsets, slips and bras. Lingerie was omnipresent, and designers reviewed the entire range of the boudoir universe, following a trend that has been in place for years. Undergarments stood out under transparent tunics or peeking through garments. In particular, increasingly high-cut jumpsuits and swimsuits were openly displayed under low-rise pants. This season, designers also had fun with trompe-l'oeil in ultra-sexy pieces. For example, white lace panties and bras were embroidered on black latex suits at Christian Cowan, or naked female bodies printed on tight dresses at Andreadamo. Garters returned at Dolce & Gabbana and Balenciaga, drawn on skin-tight nude suits or crocheted at Marco Rambaldi.
5. The bandeau corset
On the sexy side, the corset was seen through countless strapless dresses and even corset suits. Beyond the classic lace-up corset, this season's designers preferred the bandeau corset. Christian Wijnants embellished it with gold rhinestones, Miu Miu made it from a rolled and tight cardigan. This bandeau, scarf or cloth wraps tightly around the waist and torso. It was often layered over a jacket or a draped dress to better accentuate the curves of the silhouette, which were also highlighted through hourglass-shaped jackets, dresses and coats, reminiscent of the silhouette of the riding coat.
6. flowers
The floral theme returned strongly and established itself as a big trend for next summer. Whether in tapestry-style prints, embroidery, beading or fabric appliqués, flowers were everywhere. Often portrayed in giant format on dresses, tops and coats, from the carnations of Giambattista Valli and Simone Rocha to the black and white roses of Marni or Michael Kors, including the lilies of the valley by Vivetta.
7. The garment comes off the body.
The garment, its function and how it is used were central to the designers' reflections, leading to widespread experimentation. Influenced by the ubiquitous screens, they imagined garments for next summer that appeared flat, with the print reinforced by rigid contours, as seen at Acne Studios, Loewe and Duran Lantink. Alternatively, designers went so far as to have the garment separate from the body, simply pinned at the front, secured only by the collar or straps, or sewn onto a base of flesh-colored tulle, as seen at Issey Miyake, Ottolinger and Sacai.
8. The asymmetrical pants
In this experimental line, the designers focused on the pants, notably presenting an asymmetrical version with one leg completely covered and the other bare, as seen at Bottega Veneta, Coperni and Louis Vuitton. Others multiplied the variations around culottes, such as Diesel, Federico Cina and Niccolò Pasqualetti. Generally, asymmetries took over the entire wardrobe, especially skirts and dresses.
9. Browse
Several designers foresee a very sporty summer by the sea for 2025. The world of surfing, in particular, inspired many designers with form-fitting neoprene sets, seen at Ottolinger, Casablanca and Abra, as well as zip-up bodysuits, swimsuits and other leggings resembling surfer suits, seen through Christian Dior, Miu Miu and The Attic.
10. The polo dress
The small polo shirt with a buttoned collar and stripes reappeared in the summer wardrobe, with an alternately preppy and sporty spirit. It was the epitome of relaxed elegance. Versace offered it in jacquard, Balenciaga in fine stripes, Lacoste opened it on the sides. The pinnacle of next summer will be her interpretation in a long dress. Chanel even introduced a pink evening dress version.
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