With the tough economic climate and geopolitical tensions on the rise, from Ukraine to Israel to Gaza, designers have kept a low profile this season, offering mostly essential pieces made to be worn. The marathon of men's shows in Florence, Milan and Paris, which ended on January 20, confirms the fashion that has emerged in recent seasons for sober luxury, but in a more casual tone, where sportswear is making a comeback. For the autumn-winter 2024/25 season, the focus is on great classics subtly revised, with impeccable cuts and luxurious fabrics.
1. Discreet and casual luxury
A well-cut jacket, elegant pants and a long, straight coat are the essentials for next winter. XXL sizes are left behind and volumes and proportions have been reduced. Tailoring takes on a minimalist chic style with a British touch, with countless tone-on-tone total looks in a neutral or autumnal palette, proposed in the best fabrics, from cashmere to tweed and magnificent wools, with a notable return to the greats . men's classics.
The couturiers compete with each other in their inventiveness to modernize the suit, de-dramatized, now associated with simpler garments such as the turtleneck sweater or the sweater with a wide zipper neck, and even with sports garments such as the essential hoodie. -have. Utility or work clothes, such as cargo pants, jumpsuits or jackets, complete the look. Including a stylish version of a tracksuit.
2. The denim suit
Jackets and jeans, preferably made from heavyweight, sturdier indigo cotton, are the ideal embodiment of this relaxed tailoring trend. So much so that many designers have come up with their own versions. The cowboy version at Louis Vuitton, faded at Wooyoungmi and Dries Van Noten with baggy pants, combined with a military jacket at Kenzo, in dark blue at Valentino, Dior Homme and Officine Générale.
3. Velvet
The autumn-winter 2024/25 season undoubtedly marks the return of velvet. In particular, the ubiquitous corduroy, in a rich color palette on jackets, shirts, pants, coats and even shoes. From the thick ribbing seen on Fendi pants or Sacai's voluminous down jackets, to the milraya version adopted by many designers, including Kolor with slightly retro suits. Plain velvet returns with some sublime suits, notably from Dries Van Noten, Giorgio Armani, Juun.J, Todd Snyder and with a textured effect from Ziggy Chen.
4. The duffle coat
After the peacoat of recent seasons, the duffle coat returns. This short coat of military origin made of thick wool, recognizable by its patch pockets and distinctive Brandenburg buttons, with leather closures and horn or wooden buttons, returns in ultra-creative versions. Long and elegant in sky blue at Valentino, with asymmetrical buttoning at Sacai and Dries Van Noten, in suede at Dsquared2, lined with fleece at Magliano, with long and clearly visible laces, even on the cuffs, at Bed JW Ford.
5. Grandpa style
The grandpa style is in fashion. We've lost count of the number of old-fashioned cardigans and jumpers seen on the catwalks, preferably tied around the neck or waist. Padded vests, slightly worn tweed jackets with clearly visible elbow patches, corduroy trousers and checked wool shirts are essential to look ultra-cool next winter.
6. Trompe-l'oeil construction
Focusing on jackets and coats, designers varied the pleasures with trompe-l'oeil creations, where the garment is doubled. At Sean Suen, the sides of a huge jacket were folded over on themselves in two layers. Dolce & Gabbana let the satin lining stand out and buttoned up with a third row of buttons on a double-breasted blazer. On Winnie, the jacket was worn layered over another. Valentino offers a two-in-one coat in black and gray. Junya Watanabe reinvented the coat, with a trompe-l'œil jacket and pants, again with a two-in-one spirit.
7. The removable maxi pocket
Practical, the large pocket can be worn over a jacket or trousers, tone on tone with ribbons like Dries Van Noten. On Paul Smith or Ziggy Chen, it was attached to the waist like a handbag, while Taakk integrated a classic jacket pocket into the waistband of the pants. This practical and discreet accessory can also be combined with large patch pockets on jackets and pants, without forgetting the vests with pockets, which are still in fashion.
8. Our animal friends
Men get closer to nature with practical and effective all-terrain clothing and, above all, to animals, to which they pay tribute with beautiful jacquard sweaters. This is an opportunity to showcase knitwear, one of the key pieces of the season. Magliano and JW Anderson designed sweaters with cats. The SS Daley brand prefers a rabbit eating a carrot, Kolor opted for a bear, White Mountaineering for an elephant and Todd Snyder included a deer in a diamond sweater. Then there were the countless looks with faux fur, whether yeti or pelisse, and a plethora of leopard prints.
9. Ball effect
Although extra-large volumes have been abandoned, rounded shapes and the ball effect continue to fascinate fashion designers, who multiply the number of pieces with enveloping, protective covers and rounded curves. Like Rick Owens and his down jackets. Some even inflated clothing, as MSGM did with some t-shirts.
10. The unique hat
In the name of discreet luxury, if you don't want to draw attention to what you wear, you'll have to wear a hat. It is the quintessential accessory that will define next winter's silhouette. Especially if it's extravagant. Fashion designers have fun with the most unusual creations. A Rudolf Nureyev-style turban for Dior, a scarf with cascades of trompe-l'œil curls for Givenchy, a shower cap for Prada, a cowboy hat for Louis Vuitton, a chapka for Winnie, without forgetting countless versions of balaclavas. Magliano reinterprets the Borsalino as a bibi for the holidays. Bluemarble stood out with a gigantic faux fur hat, while Walter Van Beirendonck reproduced some XXL models from his archives, created by famous milliner Stephen Jones.
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