Fendi presented the first big collection of the season at the Milan fashion season on Wednesday afternoon, and animal rights protesters managed to disrupt the show at the third look.
A tough young protester, dressed in a black denim miniskirt and a white sports bra, marched to the head of the walkway holding a sign that said Animals Are Not Clothes. While it was written in marker directly on his torso it said: Use your own skin.
After walking 10 yards down the track, a security personnel pushed her and knocked down her sign. Earlier, half a dozen looks later, another protester tried to make his way onto the tarmac, but was dragged away with a lot of foul language.
Fendi, one of the most famous fur brands in the world, has long been the target of PETA followers. And security was extremely tight at the show, held inside Fendi's Milan headquarters on via Solari. All guests were required to show invitations and identification. Which makes it seem like a remarkably lax act on the brand's part to have its show taken over by animal militants.
The collection itself was sharp, concise and packed with memorable products, as Fendi womenswear creative director Kim Jones focused on smart, commercial clothing and accessories.
Combining elements of futurism, Roman architecture, sculptural draping and superlative technique, it closely resembled Jones' finest ready-to-wear collection for the house. Subtly combining photographic images of ancient empresses and Renaissance saints, printed on cocktails and silk pants or even chenille sweaters.
“Beautiful practicality,” Jones commented on his show.
Throughout, Jones's tailoring was impeccable, particularly the checked jackets, worn boldly with capri boots. While she wore knitwear, Kim artfully separated Aran's sweaters into tentacles that wrapped around her torso, suggesting movement, as she loved to do to the futurist artist.
The palette was muted, between mud, forest green and granite, and therefore ideal autumn colors. Which also means that the set was missing fireworks, which probably explains the lack of much applause at the end. The performance space was separated by huge colorful taffeta curtains, so many people never saw Jones take his bow. While he stood in the French section at the front of the runway, not a single editor applauded.
The collection was also the first presented by Kim Jones, since the appointment of Michael Burke as chief executive of the fashion group within LVMH. Burke was Fendi's first CEO after LVMH acquired the brand nearly two decades ago.
Burke now has an important new position within the giant luxury conglomerate, overseeing such stellar brands as Celine, Givenchy, Pucci and Kenzo. He did not attend this fair, where CEO Serge Brunschwig was in the front row.
Following rumors last year that LVMH was in talks with Gucci designer Alessandro Michele to take over Fendi, there was huge speculation about Jones' position at the Roman luxury brand.
But judging by this collection, Jones isn't going anywhere anytime soon. Like a true champion, just when he needed a major collection, Kim served an ace today.
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