The new undulating elegance of Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani has just given himself a great gift before his birthday: an exclusive, renewed and top-notch men's garment; on the sunny morning of Monday, the last day of Milano Moda Uomo.

With a bearded Russell Crowe, Matt Bomer, Raoul Bova, Ryota Katayose and Hu Ge sitting front row, Armani launched one of his best summer menswear collections, playing with many key elements of his work: deconstruction; not colors; impeccable tailoring and a sense of Asian sophistication.

Which earned him a prolonged standing ovation as he greeted two long-time loyal design colleagues, Leo and Gianluca Dell'Orco. Armani, who will celebrate his 90th birthday on July 11, smiled, waved and smiled almost shyly before returning backstage.

Elegiac and super elegant, he had opened the action with great, languid tailoring: a faded herringbone suit with a patch pocket that billowed gently, as if he were on a beach walk. Followed by linen blazers in soft sand tones and wide pleated pants that taper to the ankle.

She referenced 1960s collarless jackets with silk cocktail looks, many in pearl variations, which looked very elegant against the catwalk and faux alabaster backdrop.

See catwalk

There was an audible murmur of approval when he sent out a series of treated cotton suits in beige, updated in Miami Vice fashion. You felt like every guy in the room wanted that look, and they should too.

Many looks complemented with Asian floral or hibiscus motifs, seen on silk scarves and billowy stockings; and a selection of essential silk vests.

All very nomadic and backed by a smooth galactic funk soundtrack that included a great cut by Thylacine. Ideally titled – The way.

In a very busy month for the Italian maestro, Armani will dress the Italian soccer team this summer. He began the defense of his European title with a victory over Albania on Saturday night. A victory celebrated with a sports screening and a lively party at the house's main restaurant in Milan.

And next week, Giorgio will arrive in Paris to present his Armani Privé haute couture collection on Tuesday. He may be on the verge of becoming a nonagenarian, but this is a gentleman still walking. When does the emperor of fashion find time to sleep?