The Multi -Co -Cork Fashion Week opens under the shadow of Chinese tariffs and reprisals

New York Fashion Week starts the international season of the catwalk this Thursday morning with designers deeply worried about tariffs and brands threatened by multiple international sanctions.

The season gets naked more and more of his best designers: Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Marc Jacobs (which is shown out of calendar), and Proenza Schouler, whose appointment as new creative directors of Loewe is announced this spring.

The most famous brand that will be exhibited in New York will be Calvin Klein, a return of the track after almost a half decade break with the new Veronica Leoni designer. But that same brand has just been placed on the list of China's lack of reliability entities, along with his stable PVH partner, Tommy Hilfiger.

The aggressive movements occurred after President Donald Trump, a former New York resident, imposed new tariffs on China. In response, the China Ministry of Commerce complained that the two fashion brands “violated normal marketing commercial principles, interrupted normal transactions with Chinese companies, adopted discriminatory measures against Chinese companies and seriously damaged the rights and interests legitimate from Chinese companies. ” Without, however, providing exact details.

Being placed on the list means probable fines and sales and investments restrictions in China.

Even so, do not expect a quiet NYFW season with 47 brands that organize track shows, 16 brands that have presentations, other 19 occupied labels occupied with deviation screens and four brands listed as digital shows in the six days of action that ends On Tuesday night February 11, with Thom Browne's show.

The New York season occurs after multiple designers spoke in the male and haughty clothing shows last month in Europe against attacks on the LGBTQI+ community following the return to Trump's power in Washington.

Which indirectly highlights one of the greatest strengths of the New York season. Its notable ethnic and gender diversity, certainly compared to continental Europe. According to the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), the ruling the fashion of the United States, designers are almost exactly divided between men and women, and one appears as non -binary. While 48 brands are designed by a Caucasian designer; 17 by an Asian designer; 16 brands of a black designer; and seven of Latinx designers.

Truly, the Big Apple remains the melting pot and fashion. In this moment of resistance and hope, we talk with the CEO of the CFDA Steven Kolb, as fashion games begin.

Fashionnetwork: China has just announced retaliation rates. What impact will this have on NYFW? And in American designers? And in PVH, which includes Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger, and has been appointed in the list of lack of reliability entities by China?

Steven Kolb: China's retaliation rates will affect American fashion. The increase in manufacturing costs and interruptions in the supply chain can influence the prices and production of designers. NYFW could also experience these impacts as brands address these challenges. The designation of PVH in the list of unreliable entities of China could restrict access to the market, interrupt supply chains and affect consumer demand.

FN: Despite these concerns, what new talent is more excited about the next season?

SK: We are anxious for the return of the Calvin Klein collection under the creative direction of Veronica Leoni, as well as Christopher John Rogers. New at the schedule are talents such as Gabe Gordon, Leblancstudios de Yamil Arbaje and Angelo Blessed, and Zoe Gustavia Anna Whamen, Heirlome and Chuks Collins. New York Fashion Week has always been a place of discovery and these talents contribute a new voice and perspectives to US collections.

FN: The fashion weeks in Europe in January, both male clothes and haute couture, saw a great expression of support to the LGBTQI+community. Do you expect that to happen in NYFW?

SK: The LGBTQI+ community has long been an essential part of New York Fashion Week and American fashion. Given the current political climate, we hope that designers express their support to the community. Fashion reflects culture, and NYFW will continue to be a platform for that.