With his full focus on womenswear, while the men's collection is now overseen by an in-house design team, Filippo Grazioli is even more dedicated to modifying the familiar look of Missoni's signature patterns.
He showed glimpses of this commitment in the first part of the concise resort 2025 collection, which was based on simple, slender silhouettes and reiterated that sense of ease and spontaneity on which Grazioli bases his vision for the fashion house.
Using safari destinations as inspiration, the designer brought in a more subdued palette of earthy, natural tones to present Missoni's signatures in a less literal way, best exemplified by a belted jumpsuit covered in a chevron pattern that was reworked to mimic a more animal motif. The printed cotton look was one of the few pieces in the line that weren't actually woven, which is also a first when it comes to Missoni.
Elsewhere, Grazioli returned to the knitting track, keeping things relaxed and fuss-free by working with elongated crochet pants and striped buttoned pencil skirts in sober colors, as well as tackling more evening occasions with black and white knitted dresses. , casual and airy, enriched with lurex threads.
The initial relaxed palette, which Grazioli said he adopted to make Missoni's color world accessible to a broader audience, easier to mix and match and more everyday, gave way to vibrant pops of color in the second half of the collection. . Here, the designer wove stripes into youthful knitted mini sets and asymmetrical blouses, as well as introducing fluid tailoring in cheerful shades of pistachio, coral red and baby blue, proving that no colors can escape for long in a house like Missoni. .
