Japanese Designers Once Again Captivated in Paris, where they aveiled inventive and sophisticated collections during this year Everyday Fashion, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, Which reinterprets the suit, and nigo at Kenzo, Who Mixed Genres With A Brest of Madness.
After the depths of America and Lumberjacks last winter, Junya Watanabe Man this time looked for more refined costs, which brilliantly intertwine styles and times. A Chopin waltz in the piano sank the guests in an elegant and baroque past, where men got their clothes from the best weavers.
Classic custom jackets were made to measure in sumptuous brocades and shelf, precious fabrics and striped velvet. Most were upholstery fabrics from old markets. The jackets were worn with slightly flared pants and jeans, sometimes with a sailor shirt. The dark glasses add the final touch to this new Dandy style. The same fabrics were used in denim jackets that are used on their peasant monkey.
“This time, I was interested in something old but apparently new, or something new, born of the reproduction of old objects,” said Junya Watanabe in his note of intention, who also multiplied collaborations as with each of the collections of his men, calling Camper, Lee, Levi's, New Balance and Tricker, among others.
The music suddenly became jazz, while the rebel vein showed its nose in tweed suits with tight pants and even knee built as motorcyclist pants and paired with small camel shrimp. Long white and adjusted white -tangled bib shirts with thick metal chains, ties or silk scarves, which were also found in jeans.
A series of excellent Jacquard sweaters closed the show with relaxing bucolic images, while in the final appearance the views of Venice and Florence reproduced reproduced in the shape of a tapestry of Venice and Florence are reproduced.
The tailoring was also in the heart of the Comme des Garçons Homme plus collection for next summer. The demand was reviewed and reinterpreted in two contrasting versions. In technicolor or black and white, in male fabrics or harlequin fantasies, classic or unstructured cuts.
The first part of the collection presented a series of suits in cheerful impressions with graphic and colorful patterns, compounds of straight pants, tight and layers of dress inflated on the sides and covered on the back. This was followed by black cloth models with explosive construction. The manga covers fall apart while falling to the middle arm tapes and puzzles escape through the legs through the zipper clefts, and the hips take volume through whales.
“I feel that we could really use someone powerful as a shaman to bring us back to peace, love and brotherhood,” said designer Rei Kawakubo in a note, who also played the Bermuda suit with black or black cotton piqué with short jackets and fluctuating pants.
Then everything seemed to mix. The fluid jackets of pleated colleagues with light tones were improved with the XXL necklaces and flaps with bright color felt. Long and multicolored vests slipped on double-chest bankers or micro-check costumes, sometimes adorned with collars with flyers. The models were presented with long hair stirring their backs or tied in thick braids, a giant double storm lid screwed on their heads and boots and network socks on their feet.
In these times of war, Mihara Yasuhiro saw his new collection as an ode to common people and everyday costumes. His fashion seems to be constructed from the smallest elements, a real praise to simplicity, as illustrated by this crochet cap. An old tracksuit, a worn sweater or a pair of faded pants were torn from the back of the closet and met in a totally improvised way. A little like the percussive music that accompanied the program, whose musician was none other than a child hitting and rubbing a table with two pencils.
Some playful accessories underlined this daily life, which could suddenly be extraordinary. These included a banana used as a pendant, a threaded toothpaste tube through a metal box suspended from a chain and a paper bag -shaped bag that contains a wand and a bouquet of flowers. And let's not forget the patches scattered by pants and shirts, where the letters of the slogan “common people” were exhibited in the disorder in the fun Navinder Nangla graffiti, the dyslexic street artist of Northampton. “Don't tag me” it also appeared in large letters in some of the shirts.
As usual, Mihara Yasuhiro mixed different pieces, playing in surprising stratifications and constructions with dual, front and posterior identities. The shirt entered a striped poplin on the front and denim at the back, while the Khab -colored Nylon jacket on one side became a silver bomber in the other, and the canvas pants were nothing more than trapses seen behind.
Other funny garments included double strained shirts, hoodie three in one, jackets used by two or tops with two tapers of sleeves in two different sizes. Very practical.
Naughty humor also crossed the Kenzo collection, where the creative director Nigo resurrected the cheerful and playful spirit of the founder Kenzo Takada with an energetic Runway Show in Maxim's, an emblematic direction in Belle Epoque Paris, transformed for the occasion into a nightclub, where girls and boys raided their dresses to create the most crazy looks.
The eclectic combination of styles and influences of the collection, from the study of the 1970s of Kenzo Takada to the Nigo street clothing community and the Andy Warhol factory, was a mixture of retro inspiration, Japanese culture, subversive punk, pop and seam.
The silk shirts were tied in the necklace with a Lavaliere style tape. The tuxedo jackets were offered in vibrant colors and ended like kimono jackets cut in satin. Proud red officials or Hussar jackets were also available. The file prints, such as large flowers and stripes of Tigre, took care of many pieces, including shirts, pants and hooded jackets with stuffed bears ears. The pants were loose and comfortable.
The accessories should not be overcome, with hotel sneakers, vertiginous platform bowling sneakers, bags and caps covered with patches, colorful straps that fall on the sides, long and glamorous point gloves. A collection rich in ideas and references. Maybe too much.
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