At the heart of the Spring 26 collection is Balenciaga's debut use of 3D knitting, a software-driven textile process developed in collaboration with Weffan, a startup founded in 2020 by award-winning textile designer Graysha Audren. Technology is showcased through a classic single-breasted, three-pocket tailored jacket paired with pleated three-pocket fly pants.
Balenciaga's Spring 26 collection features 3D fabric with Weffan and a bioengineered silk alternative with AMSilk, advancing fashion technology and sustainability. Software-driven 3D weaving incorporates structure into the fabric, reducing waste and production time, while lab-grown silk uses 97 percent less water and emits 81 percent less CO2 than conventional silk.
Unlike conventional tailoring, 3D knitting incorporates the construction of a garment directly into the fabric during the knitting stage. Produced on improved jacquard looms, the textile integrates pattern and structure before cutting begins, effectively fusing design and manufacturing through a reverse engineering process. Once woven, the fabric is released from its two-dimensional state through precise incisions and unfolded off the loom into a three-dimensional, origami-like shape, before being finished using traditional tailoring techniques.
The result is a reinvented approach to suiting, characterized by distinctive 3D-woven seams, integrated pockets and sleeves. Beyond aesthetics, the process significantly reduces waste and manufacturing time, while addressing inefficiencies and unnecessary material use in the early creative stages. Balenciaga positions the collaboration with Weffan as a future-proof alternative for tailoring within the fashion industry.
In addition to this technical milestone, Balenciaga also makes industry history as the first fashion house to implement an advanced bioengineered alternative to silk developed with Munich-based startup AMSilk. Featured across a flowy wrap shirt and shirt dress within the Spring 26 ready-to-wear collection, the fossil fuel-free material reflects the look and feel of traditional silk while offering greater stretch and wrinkle resistance.
Derived from renewable sources, AMSilk represents a major step forward in reducing environmental impact: its production uses approximately 97% less water and emits 81% less carbon dioxide than conventional silk manufacturing. The material is certified as a Class I Product and microplastic-free by the Hohenstein Textile Testing Institute, bacteriostatic by Microbial Testing Competence and approved as vegan and cruelty-free by the Vegan Society.
The innovation behind AMSilk lies in DNA editing and protein engineering. Inspired by the exceptional strength and fineness of spider silk, scientists used a spider's genome as a model to engineer microorganisms in a bioreactor. These microorganisms produce lab-grown proteins that are transformed into polymers, spun into ultra-fine yarns, and woven into a silk-like fabric that can be made like any natural fiber.
Both the Balenciaga Weffan jacket and pants, as well as the AMSilk shirt and shirt dress, are available in select Balenciaga stores around the world and on balenciaga.com, marking a decisive step forward in the House's vision of sustainable, innovation-driven luxury.
Note: The headline, ideas and image of this press release may have been refined by Fibre2Fashion staff; the rest of the content remains unchanged.
Fiber2Fashion News Desk (RM)
