The marathon international season of four weeks and more than 400 shows that began in New York on February 9 ended in Paris this week. Here is our selection of the twelve best fashion moments, Deeny's Dozen.
Willy Chavarria
Brooklyn and fashion moment may historically sound like an oxymoron, but that's exactly what we witnessed at a big Willy Chavarría show on a cold night near New York's East River. Latin exuberance; dynamic layouts; lively inclusivity and a sense of bold bravery that sets the pulse racing. His bold new suits, with broad pagoda shoulders and lapels so pointed they reach the shoulder line; and giant pants with multiple pleats, influence all the teenagers in New York and designers around the world. Chavarría is the fashion advocate of BIPOC, that is, black, indigenous and other people of color. After working for Ralph and Calvin for more than a decade, Chavarría suddenly burst onto the New York scene. This show, which ended with Willy and his cast sitting around a Last Supper table, was her consecration.
Khaite
Without a doubt, the designer setting the agenda in New York today is the creative director and founder of Khaite, Catherine Holstein. In our dark age of destruction, as 24-hour news channels show wars in Ukraine, Gaza and elsewhere, her expressionistic style is a telling symbol of our times. Her latest collection, shown in a pitch-black setting fit for a GW Pabst film on a Hudson River pier, was also her most emotional. Coats, jackets and dresses are clearly sculpted, as if the fabric had been thrown over the models, then dimpled and scrunched into shape. In an era where women seek greater empowerment, Khaite's vision for the women of New York is one of true liberation.
Erdem
Medea, Maria Callas and the sense of loss suffered by both heroines were the connective tissue of Erdem Moralioglu's latest opulent collection. Grandly presented within the British Museum, the collection echoed multiple intimate moments in Callas's life. Models walk around with hair clips, wig tape and multiple shawls, suggesting a hurried moment of getting ready backstage after an epic performance by the diva. Sometimes still dressed in pajamas, as if waiting for an admirer, or in huge shawl-collared coats, put on and worn with bras completely exposed. Or festive in mega-large cocktails with floral prints, flared in the style of the 50s and dissected with Coarse-grained ribbons. Diva fashion at its finest.
Aaron Esh
The mood of the moment A star is born in Aaron Esh, the 2023 LVMH Prize finalist who presented a remarkably balanced and forceful collection before just 70 experts in London. Impressive haute couture techniques allied to a sense of street chic. Bias-cut chiffon cocktails, tailored cocoon coats and 12-button micro blazers, all blessed with a British touch. As is the place: the Sarabande Foundation in east London.
Prada
Deconstruction has never felt more feminist than at Prada this season. Classic dresses and coats at the front, lingerie at the back or widened legs at the sides. Skirts as if they were made from men's blazers inside out, but cut so well that they always looked elegant. Wavy technical calico coats with stand-up collars in broad 1950s shapes. Everything suggests an authoritarian woman in search of love.
Bottega Veneta
By far the newest clothing range of any collection was Matthieu Blazy for Bottega Veneta. Cocoon-shaped jackets or coats with raised seams and hems; leather doublets with bat wings, high collars and long cuffs; Flamenco skirts with mega ruffles or elongated cabans with low pockets. Everything was a little out of proportion, giving each look its charm. No prints, no embroidery, but made with true originality and showing off great silhouettes anywhere.
Courreges
In a season dominated by sculptural fashion, there was no greater fabric sculptor than Nicolas Di Felice at Courrèges. Brilliant trench dresses, which floated in the air forming stand-up collars or daring coats with huge rising lapels in the house's classic plastic-covered jersey. Placing pockets at the front or around the hips of many coat dresses, sheaths and trousers, imparting revolutionary shapes. Organized in brilliant Gallic style, a white square between wrought iron beams of the 19th century market, in the center of which stood a three-meter heart that beat in time.
Loewe
No show is as fashionable today as Jonathan Anderson's Loewe, whose metaphysical set was dotted with works by the naïve American artist Albert York, and whose front row was the envy of every other designer.
Its leitmotif: the modern morning suit; tailcoats, Etonian public school coats or elongated dresses. Although radically reinvented for 2025, finished with unexpected beading or combined with gigantic silk pants in bold floral prints. The result was a very decorative collection, in which everyone seemed like an outsider contemplating another world. Like York, whose tiny paintings of small dogs and farm animals hung in the homes of Park Avenue billionaires.
balenciaga
No set was as immersive as Demna's for Balenciaga. Where the floors, walls and ceilings were giant video screens built in a huge giant tent in front of Napoleon's Tomb. Bucolic alpine displays, gigantic snowy cliffs transforming into a gigantic mix of Tik Tok personalities. What a backdrop for a collection that reworked the Balenciaga canon through Demna's artistic lens. Opening with versions of the founder's Cristóbal dresses: in midnight blue velvet, pleated silk or turquoise sequins, although each one renewed with a hip aulette, a term used by Balenciaga creative director Demna to refer to shoulder pads sewn into the hips. Dresses cleverly made from three inside-out or twisted sweatshirts; repurposed wardrobe looks with fresh street grandeur or heavily rumpled asymmetrical cocktails. Demna at his best.
Miu miu
A double winning season for Miuccia Prada, whose Miu Miu had the most modern and contemporary wardrobe in the world. In recent years, Miuccia seems determined to compete with Prada, where she teams up with Raf Simons. So far, she is winning this game. This season he showed off an ideal Milanese wardrobe: double-breasted coats in slate gray with a herringbone pattern, dotted with crystals; suede blazers sewn with rhinestones; gorgeous crushed silk cocktails, paired with long crocodile or suede gloves; or perfectly cut cross redingotes with small necks. Everything worked so splendidly. So when 48 hours later Prada announced spectacular results, it was no surprise that Miu Miu's revenue had increased 56% last year.
Louis Vuitton
Nicolas Ghesquière closed the official Paris catwalk season with a gigantic show before 4,000 people at the Louvre and the biggest ovation of any designer. Fully deserved after this latest display of Nicolas' athletic, futuristic elegance, combined with remarkable craftsmanship and daring draping. Norfolk jackets cut like high-necked blousons and worn with pocketed, ruffled skirts; mega paillette floor-length dresses or hiking jackets cut like cocktails. Breakthrough fashion from the most experimental designer of any major global brand.
Margiela House
Never before in fashion has a designer been as open about his inspiration, techniques and imagination as John Galliano was last week in Paris. The British couturier created a cabinet of curiosities to showcase his recent haute couture collection at the Maison Margiela headquarters. For one week, by appointment, you could capture this unique installation, featuring detailed photo albums of the inspirations for each look; X-rays of clothing or displays of medical or newly created corsetry. There was a Darwinian feel to the dark wood, antique cabinets, clamps, skulls and glass apothecary jars containing Christian Louboutin's evil flat-topped shoes. Influences ranging from Van Donegan's oil paintings and Brassai's photographs of old Paris. Layers of tailoring material (triple organza, felt, wool crepe and printed tulle) were used to make the wonderful Artful Dodge Ulster coats. Among them the notable garments: puffer jackets finished with reverse seams; dresses with Rorschach dots; an exceptional cotton gabardine coat with caisette, which looked like cardboard. A mad scientist's laboratory and an exceptionally revealing fashion moment.
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