In chronological order, starting in New York and ending in Paris, the 12 catwalks show the most beautiful clothes; Empowered most women; He packed the biggest blow; Or took fashion in fresh aesthetic terrain.
Altuzarra
Llorous heights in the famous Finance Cathedral, the Woolworth building. Bright double -sided puppy coats, used by heroines that escape a storm, as the protagonist of the famous novel Catherine Earnshaw.
Alpine puppy sweaters; black mount boots; Jodhpur style pants; fabulous large hooded layers; and soft blouses, ideal for the Moors of North Yorkshire of crying heights, or for the sub-cero temperature of New York on the day of the show. The most polished fashion statement in the United States.
Luar
One of the two great design communities in Bipoc's fashion with Willy Chavarria, Raúl López captivated in a lower Lobby of Manhattan with a great exhibition of brave and provocative lust for love.
His title was “El Pato”, taken from Hispanic homophobic jargon for someone effeminate. López cuts with a scalpel: tunics cut diagonally; Thin pants with fantasy pencil adapt to a muddy crocodile print; Fantastic looks of the body of Martha Graham's body. Almost all passages won cheers of their first row. All the way to a fabulous space commander of the denim denim, like a lieutenant after the Uhura hours in the Stuy bed. Fighting in fashion for diversity and inclusion.
Paolo Carzana
A moment is born star for Paolo Carzana and his first adequate parade, presented at a small pub called The Holy Tavern to only 40 customers. A lovely gang of sedimentation dandies and molls, all strangely dyed, wrinkled and wrinkled fabric dresses in the Chic Restoration-Pirata.
Beautifully discouraged, the cast carried a collection that was tied, twisted, rolled and ruled, like the extras of “The Raft of the Medusa”. The new most popular talent in the United Kingdom. And not a bad mesh after.
Marni
Francesco Risso may not be the most commercial designer in Milan, but he is the most great. A collaboration with Nigerian artists Olaolu Slawn and Soldier Boyfride led to images of wolves, fox queues, dark birds and flying pigs.
Paintings shown on the walls of the show space and printed in many ghostly attire. Talk about compound fashion cool: Crombi coats that become cups, metro skirts that had a lot of kicked and shirt dresses transformed into dresses. All presented inside a surreal simulated jazz club. Probably the most original collection of the season.
Fendi
Silvia Fendi fammed the century of the brand that her grandparents founded with a collection often seductive. Ironically, this was felt as the best possible exam document for the work that has been carried out effectively: creative director of the Roman house.
Neck cans with impeccable embedded funnel that are used as dresses; Wonderful tubular leather coats in Chevron and Zig Zag Redes that struggled rich. Eva Herzigova in a accordion folds silk cocktail; Edie Campbell with a capulo coat of Tweed embedded with Stras. Talk about passing a test with flyers.
The row
Puise, poetry and calm in the row, where half of the guests had to sit on the carpeted floor, better to enjoy the purity of the clothes: initiated by super trenches, shortened with precise panels; All nibbled in the neck with two visible buttons.
Everything elegant but you never look for attention: double -sided puppy layers with tuxedo flap, large lambs of lamb in burgundy or soft spies layers with large flaps in black leather. Exactly the type of clothing that all editors and buyers wanted to wear.
Tom Ford
A sweet smell of a success in the launch collection of Haider Ackermann for Tom Ford. Hyperro -relocated leather looks with a transgression soup. Impeccably cut: perfect perfect for girls; Tense motorcyclist jackets for boys; Redingtes for rock stars; Babats of surgeons for fatal femme.
Zegna spent $ 150 million by buying the 20 -year license from the Tom Ford fashion and accessories division, which was never remarkably profitable. But this looks like a great bet that you will pay generously.
Róisín Pierce
A moment of grace in Róisín Pierce, who organized three intimate shows in the golden elegance of the Breteuíl hotel, also known as the Irish embassy in Paris.
A delicate cotton spirals, snowflake cotton, embroidery of whispering and feathery tulle that confirmed Róisín as one of the most important contemporary contemporary designers.
Givenchy
Sarah Burton debuted with a tremendous style in Givenchy. Riffing on the Bettina's blouse of Givenchy; clear tailoring; Small black dresses for Audrey Hepburn; or the netcurvations that said “Givenchy Paris 1952”, the year in which the house was founded.
A cunning mixture of silhouette, attitude and the best costume jewels anywhere. An elegant homer for Burton and Givenchy.
Issey Miyake
The strongest applause of the season went to Satoshi Kondo in Issey Miyake inside the carousel du louvre. Marry Manisno Blazers with beautifully inverted shirts, their sleeves falling to the waist.
Innovations of fabrics announced: as blazers in paper and polyurethane in the form of V; o Alpaca mixtures and thermoplastic synthetic fibers to produce gigantic rigid coats in fantasy folds and silhouettes. Great success show, epic fashion.
Louis Vuitton
Trans -Euro Vuitton, like Nicolas Ghesquière took only 400 guests to a simulated railway station, next to a real: La Gare du Nord. An adequate metaphor for the last combination of the designer's futurism, active sport, technological materials and language in the humor humor.
Talk about drinking risks: cut -cut shorts like kiki bachi basins in the lotus -shaped lotus, combined with transparent latex dishes. Anoraks Graphics with road signaling Vuitton logos; or tartan blankets brilliantly covered in sexy saris after the hour. For the night, Samurai armor -shaped knitted caps on vast Mille Feuille gauze dresses. It is not surprising that the French first lady Brigitte Macron gave her the warmest hug imaginable when Nicolas became reverence.
Miu Miu
Without a doubt, the most influential show in today's fashion.
This season, Miuccia titled the “Feminities” collection, and its exaggerated ideas: cone Braz; Triangular felt wool structures; adaptation that sat from the body; The ultra-truth transparent silk through silk seemed sensational. As well as its hyper eclectic cast and sexually diverse. Live resistance.
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