Translated by
Nicola Mira
Published
March 11, 2024
The Fashion Week marathon for next winter's women's ready-to-wear collections recently ended in Paris, after its usual stops in New York, London and Milan. Quiet luxury remains the main trend for Autumn/Winter 2024-25, but will feature increasingly sophisticated looks and even greater creativity in terms of construction and silhouettes, with bright colors making an appearance. Black, gray and brown remained the dominant tones, but many collections also introduced a palette of vibrant autumn tones, always within the total looks: golden yellow, red, mustard beige, maroon, violet, lime green and khaki. Looks included long coats, capes and suits galore, along with sensual, super-feminine ensembles characterized by lace and sheer effects, while designers turned to accessories and knitwear for their most inventive creations.
1) Elegant minimalism
The aesthetic of quiet luxury has clearly evolved and designers are shifting towards more sophisticated and carefully curated styles. The runways were filled with refined elegance, often enhanced by accessories such as jewelry and opera gloves. The focus was on outerwear, with coats, many of them decorated with crystals, coat dresses and trench coats, as well as tailored pieces such as suits, jacket and skirt sets, midi skirts, wide trousers and a multitude of blazers. . Silhouettes were often rounded at the shoulders and sleeves, with cinched hourglass waists that echoed Dior's celebrated Bar suit. All of this in fine, beautiful fabrics, with plenty of slightly retro marbled wool, even for evening wear.
2) Powerful shoulders
The XXL volumes of recent years are gradually reducing, but the upper body remains a key point. Designers have paid a lot of attention to the neck, shoulders and even arms, enhancing and enhancing them with puffy, warrior volumes, or using soft materials in ultra-protective mode. Padded and knitted cocoon tops, texture effects, wraparound scarves, wide sleeves and microboleros: the designers used all possible tricks to emphasize the upper part of the body, including boleros equipped with detachable sleeves, present in several collections.
3) layers
The latest round of shows put outerwear center stage, once again featuring a slew of maxi coats and ankle-length coats, and a profusion of extremely form-fitting protective layers, in all sizes and materials. The choice was wide, from the very popular pelerine, seen at Chloé, to the classic capes of Marie Adam-Leenaerdt and Marni, the majestic ones of Antonio Marras and the elegant evening ones. There were also hybrid layers incorporated into a coat or wraps such as scarves (at Del Core and Jil Sander), ponchos (at Leonard), large stoles, and blankets wrapped around the body.
4) Developing effects
Designers have competed in creativity to innovate garment construction this season, often creating unfolding effects. Jackets and blouses spread out in panels of fabric that rose to the neck. Dresses and coats that looked like protective covers opened like petals, as if folding in on themselves. Corset blouses and jackets were reversible or worn inside out, turning the neck into a waist and vice versa. Other blouses were buttoned or open in the back, exposing her. The sculptural clothing came in organic, asymmetrical draped fabrics. T-shirts with trompe-l'œil sleeves that look like aprons at Balenciaga and Stella McCartney.
5) Knitted dresses and oversized knitwear
Knitted garments will be omnipresent in next winter's wardrobe, wool finished with all types of treatments (combing, washing, felting, bouclé, braiding, etc.), preferably with shaggy and voluminous effects, while cable knit sweaters will occupy a prominent place. Knit dresses will be making a comeback, including some gorgeous versions of evening dresses, like those seen at Del Core, and distressed grunge-style ensembles.
6) Leopard prints
Feline prints are one of the themes of next season. They appeared in total looks and in unique garments, such as a dress, a coat, a T-shirt, a pair of shoes or some stockings. Faux fur was widely used, adding a touch to the monochrome looks that abound on the catwalks. Leopard prints also came in red and black.
7) Monkeys
The bodysuit is the essential garment for next winter. It is a practical garment that is easily combined with skirts and pants as a kind of tank top, and can also be worn as a single garment under a coat. Designers have given it a lot of importance, reinventing it in countless new shapes and materials. Like a tight corset or anorak at Duran Lantink, in a latex version at Avellano, and unbuttoned over pants at Fendi. The high-neck bodysuit was especially popular, seen in knit versions at Gauchere, Rick Owens and N°21, and long-sleeved in leather at Acne Studio. Coperni transformed all of his tops into jumpsuits, from blazer to trench coat, tuxedo and biker jacket.
8) dressing table style
The Fall/Winter 2024-25 season has decreed the return of an ultra-feminine style, evident in the increasingly daring necklines, the plethora of bows, transparencies and the omnipresent lace, in which black lace stockings stand out.
Above all, the collections placed great emphasis on sensual lingerie-style ensembles, with corsets, bustiers, bodices and suspenders, the latter again strongly in the women's wardrobe, even when cited simply as a cheeky reference, for example in the part bottom of a t-shirt. Combined with the leopard print theme, these boudoir-style ensembles tapped into a gangster moll trend, taking the provocative idea of the superwoman to the extreme.
9) Hoods and boots
Hoods, balaclavas, turbans, oversized hoods, swimming caps and scarves incorporated into clothing – full-head coverings were everywhere. The same was true for boots, especially thigh-high ones. One of the favorites was the socks and stockings fused with the boots. Balenciaga presented a grunge style with worn and frayed tights: the ultimate in elegance.
10) The loaf of bread
That quintessentially French icon, the baguette, has never been more fashionable! In the form of a leather bag, as at Moschino, or in all kinds of creative packaging, the long, thin golden loaf of bread emerged as a subliminal message, an invitation to return to normality. Baguettes were also present at the Undercover and Marine Serre fashion shows to defend a very wearable fashion designed for everyday life.
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