Stone Island will celebrate 42 years of activity in 2024 and will begin a new stage.
Signaling this new direction, the Italian brand, controlled by the Moncler Group, held an event in Milan for the first time on Friday during Men's Fashion Week. It was not a fashion show as expected, but rather a presentation of the brand's garments worn by models standing on three levels of metal scaffolding.
The pieces were presented in multiples, telegraphing a message of authority. An electronic cyber-punk soundtrack and red headlights and strobes cut through the dark industrial space, leaving some guests a little bewildered. Everyone was left baffled by a technical glitch with a black curtain that at one point fell over the facility, leaving some wondering if the show was over.
New CEO Robert Triefus clearly wanted to make a statement by conveying the brand's strategy and mantra, which sees members of the Stone Island community following their own “inner compass,” a reference to the firm's logo , to an obsession with research and development and independence of mind.
The models never left the scaffolding and the darkness prevented guests from seeing the garments up close, which was a shame because the experimentation behind the garments is of the highest level and sets the brand apart. Reruns will surely solve this problem, and as it was conceived as a one-off event, it was probably intended to leave a mark on the industry rather than sticking to the general concept of a presentation.
From the brand's notes, it was explained that the optical effect on a hooded jacket was that of liquid glass. This was achieved from two layers of organza with a nylon base, nanotechnology used to infuse aluminum into the polyester organza, so that the metal was attracted to the yarn.
A lightweight snap-fastened jacket and two bombers were made from Stone Island's iridescent nylon metallic fabric using Econyl's trademark regenerated yarns. One of the bombers had an industrial black tape zipper, telegraphing the inspiration for this season's astronaut uniforms. There was also a military feel to some of the looks, like the monochrome pea coat and wool and cashmere double-breasted jacket.
An archival parka from the fall 1999/2000 collection, Stone Island's first collection to feature metal, was revised entirely in stainless steel mesh applied to a black nylon base. The metallic material, subject to oxidation over time, loses shine, with wrinkles and tears that make each jacket unique.
For more MFW reviews, click here.
