A packed show for the latest Comme des Garçons show, with more people standing than sitting inside a dusty disused office building on a run-down block in the ninth arrondissement.
The detritus of the site echoed in the deconstruction of clothing, another seductive expression of fashion artistry by Comme designer Rei Kawakubo.
A show that features new variations on tried-and-true Kawakubo tricks, from inside-out jackets to wrinkled and wrinkled styles.
We open with a series of boiled wool jackets, shrunken, torn and sometimes barely sewn, paired with culottes and madly gathered trousers, all in white. They all had great magnetism. One couldn't help but be fascinated by his slightly deranged quality.
“White symbolizes prayer,” was Kawakubo's sibylline comment in his program notes.
Next came a group of inner and outer jackets, a demanding garment but one that made an eye-catching entrance. Before Rei went into overdrive in a large ensemble of pattern-embroidered calico jackets from London Pearly Men.
Ending with his best passage, a quartet of large pale gray striped suits worthy of gangsters, although tailored for a poet. Pete Doherty-style shrunken suits that made a Thom Browne silhouette look like a Balenciaga cocoon. Worn with matching felt sweatpants shorts, by models sporting funky bleached white wigs.
Kawakubo, as is his tradition, did not bow. Although she could be greeted in the small backstage, where she bowed deeply to each guest. Dressed in a giant black coat with twisted tails and her face covered with a large white mask, she smiled softly with her eyes at the visitors she recognized.
Rei said that their theme was the 'Spiritual World' and that the clothes had an otherworldly quality. All backed by a soundtrack that included a strange showgirl soundtrack that included 'Anarkian Kuvajainen'. by Cucina Povera.
Not exactly a vintage display, but an intriguing game in a semi-sacred style.
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