Soshiotsuki surprises with his international debut at Pitti Uomo 109

Designer Soshi Otsuki earned a standing ovation at Pitti Uomo's key gala show on Thursday after presenting a brilliant collection that celebrated classic Western tailoring, even while subverting its codes.

A tour de force of draping, cut and silhouette, this fall 2026 collection from her brand Soshiotsuki was definitely a major fashion statement.

In a moment of volume in menswear, Otsuki opened the action with a perfectly judged trio of double-breasted suits with peak lapels in crepe and fine wool in various shades of cement, mud or dove grey.

He cut his jackets so they ended well below his hips and his pants were something else. Made with half a dozen front pleats, they were elephantine but never outrageous. Otsuki is a great natural tailor, exaggeration simply adds to the elegance.

Soshi is no slouch when it comes to leather either. From his copper-toned leather rock god suit to his cocoon-style leather bomber jacket. And, just when you thought she was playing it too safe, she sent some fabulous jeans, so faded they almost looked moth-eaten. Tokyo urban style meets Italian tailoring.

Playing with couture techniques, the designer also created several bias-cut green corduroy blazers and suits that combined Japanese eccentricity and British poise.

The show was the last Italian-Japanese marriage in this edition of Pitti that began with a parade of Japanese costumes by the Sebiro Sanpo tailoring association inside the Fortezza da Basso, the giant fortress where the hall is located. Surprisingly, Otsuki has never formally studied costume, but somehow understands it instinctively.

The soundtrack, taken from composer Joe Hisaishi's score for Takeshi Kitano's 2000 gangster film Brother, featured a beautiful, yearning saxophone solo. It would have felt perfect for one of Douglas Sirk's '50s melodramas starring Rock Hudson. Rock was almost expected to take the final passage.

Presented inside the beautiful Refetterio Santa Maria della Novella, an imposing Gothic refectory at the rear of the legendary Renaissance Basilica, this was a display of bravery.

In all, a collection of bases loaded, home runs and big hits. You could say it was like a star was born in men's fashion, except Soshi Otsuki was already acclaimed. He is the last winner of the LVMH Prize.

Talk about backing up winning an award with a big fashion statement.