Before an array of young stars, Fendi presented a gently nostalgic collection on a hot Saturday in Milan, ironically amid many changes at the house in its upper levels.
The smoothly staged show marked the first appearance of new CEO Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou, a multilingual Frenchman, who sat smiling in the front row.
You can indulge in this latest collection from the house's menswear designer, Silvia Fendi, who tapped into heaps of Fendi DNA even as she updated the look with technical fabrics and a subtle sense of humor.
From the second-skin suedes seen on lightweight trench coats; Saddle-stitched doublets in reindeer leather and fine fabrics with intricately cut versions of a Western neckline.
“Our historical Selleria sewing is very present, but it became very subtle and was used as embroidery. It is not just about sewing, but about the virtuosity of the stitch applied both in accessories and in ready-to-wear,” explains Silvia.
The designer also played with shields (a Janus head shield, Roman columns and Fendi's double F logo) seen on yellow ribbed knits or mock rugby sweaters.
“The idea was to create a Fendi Club, like a gentlemen's club, with a new crest that we designed using the House's first codes such as the squirrel, the two-headed Roman god Janus, the Pequin stripe and the FF logo, of course. ”. Silvia explained, greeting a bunch of bold young names in a packed backstage.
That was certainly true on this show, where everything reeked of richness and high quality without being uptight. However, it was a bit surprising to see the latest double-breasted suits, which were cut with curved hems, like Dior Homme, designed by Fendi women's designer Kim Jones.
Although born in Rome, Fendi has always shown its ready-to-wear in Milan, and this season it chose a giant blank space, which kept the cast quite far from the public. It was never a great idea.
Thanks to Silvia, Fendi has a real power of attraction among celebrities. Spotted by their male Fendi ambassadors in the front row, such as British actor Nicholas Galitzine and Japanese actor Ren Meguro, who prowled around before the show holding a bag for dozens of paparazzi. From music, the friend of the house Marco Mengoni, Mr. Rain and Tananai; James Turlington, son of iconic supermodel Christy Turlington, and Korean singer Bang Chan. From cinema, the enfant terrible filmmaker Xavier Dolan; from the sporty Tyrod Taylor of the New York Jets or Jonathan Kuminga of the Golden State Warriors.
Although La Silvia's best idea was the excellent series of checks in light pinks, pale greens, roses and sand, turned into trench coats, cabanas, varsity jackets and sports shorts. It will surely start a major trend in men's fashion and another example of Silvia's prescience.
“I think Fendi is a brand of great depth. Of course, anyone in my position would say that, but I really think she has exceptionally fantastic DNA and I'm really looking forward to us creating something together here,” Angeloglou said.
He will also oversee a total of seven brands within the LVMH group, including Kenzo, Marc Jacobs and Pucci, although Fendi is by far the largest.
In a subtle handover, outgoing Fendi CEO Serge Brunschwig was also present. He will leave Rome after more than six years, a period in which Fendi recorded double-digit annual growth on average.
Brunschwig declined to indicate where he was headed or comment on rumors that LVMH was considering replacing Kim Jones. The rumors were further fueled by the house's decision to cancel the Fendi haute couture show, in the upcoming Paris season at the end of June. And it was further inflamed last week by John Galliano's decision to remove all of her posts from his Instagram account, despite having 1.5 million followers. Igniting a firestorm of rumors on the internet that he could be about to head to Rome and take over Fendi.
When asked about Galliano's talk, Brunschwig narrowed his eyes and dismissed the idea with a laugh: “Ohhh, you better ask Paris about that.”
Stay tuned.
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