Simon Cracker, Magliano and Martine Rose

Alongside the big fashion houses, the new creative guard is making its presence felt in Milan with captivating and unique collections for spring/summer 2025. On Sunday, three emerging brands attracted significant attention: the fully recycled alternative brand Simon Cracker, the increasingly sophisticated Magliano and the British designer Martine Rose, who will be presented for the first time in Milan.

Simon Cracker started the day with a vibrant, sporty collection in black, mauve, pool blue and acid green. The garments were made and then touched up with dyes, resulting in unique effects depending on the fabric, sometimes appearing faded or splattered.

Behind this apparent lightness lies a reflection on the deep divisions that affect the world. “The collection is titled 'A Question of Principle' because this argument usually ends all discussions that lead to an escalation of violence. With what is happening in the world, it would be irresponsible not to be political at this time,” explained Filippo Biraghi, brand coordinator, and Simone Botte, who founded the brand in 2010 with a 100% upcycling commitment.

To convey this message, they used knots as a metaphor for both connection and obstruction. They used a stash of salvaged cords to tie together pieces of fabric or to reconstruct completely unstitched jackets. Lace wraps around the neck like a cowboy tie, adorns earrings, or cinches the waist like a belt. It is also transformed into fringes on a top or woven as embroidery in crochet stitch.

This season, Simon Cracker gained access to the unsold and idle stock of Australian, one of the last 100% made in Italy sports brands. This hidden treasure allowed creators to reinvent sweatpants and use polo collars to create banded tops and skirts. They also jokingly added little children's knitwear to the shirt fronts as decoration.

The brand announced two collaborations: one with Dr. Martens for footwear and another with Australian. “We created a capsule of eight garments with sweaters, t-shirts, tracksuits, caps and swimsuits. For the first time we will market reproducible garments,” highlighted the duo, which usually produces unique pieces that they distribute to about 15 people. multi-brand clients, mainly vintage stores, but also some high-end boutiques like Penelope in Brescia.

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Magliano also explored the theme of the knot, featuring it in shawls cinched at the waist, adorning cardigan pockets, and formed within the fabric of some denim and flannel jackets. Additionally, there are skinny drawstring pants, from classic pleated styles to joggers. This knot represents a common thread for designer Luca Magliano, reflecting on the “intimate and elusive” memories of coming of age and the discovery of homosexuality and the Queer world. “The knot symbolizes a crossing or a narrowing between two opposites.”

This summer wardrobe represents an important step for the house with a clear step towards luxury through a more defined proposal. The design is still recognizable but is more refined and precise, far from the imperfect and underground looks of previous seasons. The collection features essential monochromatic pieces, impeccably cut from beautiful materials, although it seems to have lost Luca Magliano's biting humor.

Hints of this humor remain in details like a pastel-colored candy necklace, a T-shirt featuring a talking rat struck by lightning, a woven wicker belt, industrial gloves worn opera-style, and a snake smoking a joint. over a mohair sweater. . In particular, the knitwear is the result of a collaboration with Jezabelle Cormio of the Cormio brand.

Magliano's signature style is fully present in this collection: trousers with pleats and drawstrings, elongated double-breasted jackets, long coats, light jackets and silk shirts unbuttoned to the navel. But everything is more sophisticated, from the leather belt that cinches a jogger to the pinstriped Bermuda shorts and an elegant travel bag with micro prints, to a gray wool sweater transformed into a collarless cardigan with a zipper and large pockets.

The impact of a new partner is evident. Magliano joined forces with Underscore District, a digital fashion business accelerator run by Edoardo Di Luzio, in January 2023. They created a new company, sharing ownership with Faenza-based manufacturer Arcari e Co as a minority shareholder.

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Among Magliano's creations, a mosaic shirt with small black and white portraits stood out. Martine Rose proposed a similar model, linking London and Milan. The British-Jamaican designer made her debut on Sunday with her first real show in another fashion capital, despite having walked in Italy at Pitti Uomo in January 2023 and having presented a film in Paris last January.

Martine Rose's Tomorrow-owned menswear brand aims to increase its visibility among shoppers as it begins to structure its merchandising by focusing on accessories and developing a women's line, as illustrated by the series of bags and numerous women's garments in this collection. . After Prada, and in a more commercial and formal Italian context, Martine Rose, known for her sporty, urban and work styles inspired by subcultures and the nineties, opted for contrasts to make a difference.

A dark hangar with runways and stadium stands, illuminated by blinding spotlights, evoked an underground concert hall. Strange figures emerged with long prosthetic noses and hair hanging down to their lower backs. Styles clashed between masculine and feminine, urban and formal, leather and flannel. The look was spiced up with “porn chic” accessories, such as thigh-high fishnet socks and leather flys over classic pants.

Leather garments were abundant, from pants to jackets and shorts, combined with more traditional men's clothing (shirt and double-breasted jacket or tartan boxers). Satin appeared in caressing shirts, a long robe and a slip dress. Jackets, blazers and trench coats were tucked into pants, while jeans featured an additional zipper along with the traditional button fly. Much more practical!