“I'm still in my '70s mode, but a little more updated,” Sergio Hudson said backstage before his models hit the runway. The decade of cultural shifts have served the designer well, an endless source of inspiration for his powerful clothing through unique muses he's channeled before: Tina Tuner and Bianca Jagger.
The novelty came in the form of more leather, a fabric that Hudson says has “really improved.” The first look came with a deep-boned beige leather bustier under a pinstripe suit, followed by a belted leather slip dress that flowed down the runway. The focus on slinking was seen throughout the looks, with bustier details on sheath dresses and under blazers that focused on the body. Classic coats in masculine fabrics and deep suedes completed several looks, easily staples for a seasonless fall wardrobe.
While the first half of the collection had a muted palette, Hudson always injects saturated colors into her work. The second half of her runway was bright and sexy, as well as tactile, with sequin blouses, velvet bodysuits, leather obi belts, and draped, skin-baring dresses. And, of course, plenty of her signature power suit, now with flared pants that passed quickly.
For more New York Fashion Week reviews, click here.
