Schiaparelli presents a sensational show, amid acquisition rumors


Is LVMH about to buy Schiaparelli, which opened the Paris couture season with a sensational, heavenly-inspired, Texas-tinged show attended by Jennifer Lopez and Zendaya?

Schiaparelli Haute Couture AW 2024/2025 – FNW

There have been rumors that Schiaparelli's owner, Italian luxury baron Diego Della Valle, could be considering a sale, now that its couturier Daniel Roseberry has made it one of the most popular brands in Paris. The presence of two important LVMH executives, the current and future president of the conglomerate's Fashion Group – which oversees Celine, Fendi, Pucci and Givenchy, among others -, Sidney Toledano and Michael Burke, will only add fuel to the speculation.

When asked about a possible offer, Burke responded: “Diego and I are old friends and neighbors in Miami.” While Toledano responded, “we are just here to see a great exhibition by a very interesting designer.”

Sporting a tan after spending his winter vacation at his canalside villa in Miami, Della Valle shrugged and smiled: “No, we're very happy to own Schiaparelli.”

Certainly, judging by this show, it would be a smart acquisition for LVMH and for Bernard Arnault, who collects brands the way children collect Pokémon cards. Given the quality of this remarkable show, Schiaparelli's attractions for LVMH and Della Valle – who is also a member of the French luxury giant's board of directors – are many and varied.

Roseberry has created a large couture division and has earned a legion of wealthy followers. Haute couture collector Mouna Al Ayoub sat front row, as did blonde beauty Hunter Schafer.

Schiaparelli Haute Couture AW 2024/2025 – FNW

Roseberry took the house's surreal DNA to new levels: with a robot baby that seemed astonishingly alive, carried by a lithe mother on a column of pearlescent silk; or the cyber girl at a cocktail party who looked like a magnet who had attracted calculators, silicon chips and keyboard transistors after entering an electronics store. Although the shape was a majestic dress worthy of a futuristic Elizabeth Regina.

Roseberry broke new ground with materials, like the divine cocktail of vinyl opening chess pieces, with a white crochet collar, and references. Like a power heroine with a jacket made of dozens of western belts.

A truly exceptional couture collection, highlights include a “creature” dress with nude petal embellishments and a keyhole front opening; or a wonderful lace cocktail of a bird of paradise whose wings rose upwards.

But the very surrealism of its designs and its complicated construction have made it difficult to build a true ready-to-wear division. To date, Schiaparelli only has five boutiques internationally, including Bergdorf Goodman and Harrods. LVMH's great power in product extension, marketing, distribution and global knowledge would make it an ideal home for Schiaparelli, one of the most legendary names in fashion, since it was founded in Paris in 1927 by Rome-born Elsa Schiaparelli. .

As one well-informed observer pointed out, using the French concept of terroir, the unique land, soil and climate necessary to create great wines. “The Schiaparelli plant is very healthy; “It just needs the right terroir.”

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