'Saltburn' on the Upper East Side


The children, and a PETA protester, broke into the James B. Duke mansion on the Upper East Side on Monday afternoon, where Coach held its fall 2024 runway show.

Midway through the show, which evoked “Saltburn” with its irreverent uptown party dresses and “worn and loved” leather jackets with no semblance of pants, a protester burst through a side door with a sign that read “Leave live the cows.”

This is the second consecutive season that a protester has breached the perimeter of a Coach show. But you know what? With the kind of youthful rebellion that Coach shows on his runways, he felt like he was in the brand.

Additionally, Coach is a Wall Street darling right now, with new relevance among younger consumers that propelled the company to a 5 percent year-over-year net income increase, as reported in its first-quarter results. Tapestry.

“There's a lot of momentum at Coach right now, which, after being here 10 years, is nice to see,” Stuart Vevers said during a preview.

The designer has kept his runway message concise, last season he promoted bias-cut leather dresses with a grunge twist, and this season he proposed deconstructed ballgowns as party blouses over repurposed jeans, or cropped taffeta and crinoline skirts worn with thick, novelty hoodies or sweaters. . They looked great.

“We are very interested in self-expression, altering some of those luxury codes, being a little ironic with them, playing with them. But also taking some of those feminine references and making them feel more urgent, more feminist and everyday,” she said.

So go ahead and cut out your grandmother's party dress, why not?

Coach Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear Collection at New York Fashion Week

Giovanni Giannoni / World Water Day

Outerwear is Coach's bread and butter, of course, and this season, it was your mom's quilted leather jacket that lost its preciousness. Washed and distressed bomber jackets, suede fringes and biker jackets also had the “worn for love” effect, tapping into the already strong trend for all things vintage leather.

Although still scruffy, Coach's menswear was much more sophisticated this season with long tuxedo jackets; a new version of evening wear; trench coats in different materials and a new version of tweed jackets, all of which fit perfectly into the venue of the show.

Vevers also offered more tailoring this season, with some sports crest motifs. “It's like inviting people to be part of a club, but a really inclusive club that welcomes everyone,” he said.

Coach introduced a new bag, “The Empire,” a beautiful belted style that is a fresh silhouette for the leather goods house. They were decorated for the runway with all kinds of New York decorations and knick-knacks like pretzels, apples, and Liberty statuettes.

“When I was talking through the forums I realized that this is the first time there are no archive references, it's interesting,” Vevers said. He has truly written his own chapter in the legacy of the 81-year-old house. Let the pants go!

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