Sabato De Sarno has this.
With his fall 2024 women's collection at Milan Fashion Week, the designer proved that the second time is the charm.
Featuring gorgeously executed contemporary clothing and outerwear, bold colors, sexy lingerie looks and covetable riding boots and heeled loafers, the spectacular collection showed the way forward for Gucci as it works to regain its share in the luxury market.
There were legs, legs everywhere at Friday's show in a humid warehouse on the outskirts of Milan, with most of the VIPs wearing super-short skirts and HotPants that set the tone for De Sarno's new, younger Gucci of the season. pass. Absurd on a winter's day, sure, but this is what kids wear, and it drew a line from then to now, although it didn't win over all critics.
For fall, the leggy looks were still there: a jumpsuit with charcoal wool crepe shorts managed to look chic and sporty with over-the-knee red riding boots. But they didn't downplay the collection's core messages of precision-cut tailoring and outerwear with better fabrications and more obvious craftsmanship in the clothing. This time, De Sarno included longer skirts and dresses, but no pants! However, he said, they will be sold in stores to pair with matching jackets.
We'd be challenged not to find a coat we love in this collection, which included a camel canvas style that projected luxurious ease over a pink button-down shirt and boxer briefs, a double-breasted navy blue uovo style with gradient sequins, a sturdy a sun yellow peacoat and a red Ancora snake coat among the highlights.
De Sarno is establishing a great play of colors as one of his signatures (something he may have learned at his last concert at Valentino). In addition to covering billboards around the world and taking over Gucci stores with the latest spring shoes and bags available now, the deep red Ancora of the debut collection has also influenced other designers' collections and carried over into this one. (A note: they need Ancora nail polish, stat.)
One has to wonder if she can now work her magic with the acid green that was also a fall line, as seen on a lush velvet dress with a matching green crescent-shaped bag. Taylor Swift already wore a green sequin Gucci dress at the Golden Globes, and Jessica Chastain wore a highlighter green Gucci dress at the Emmys. Dopamine dressings might be just the thing for these dark times.
There were plenty of other trend-setting colors here too, including a baby blue seen on an embossed GG leather peacoat.
In a season full of slipdresses, Gucci's were superior in their construction and finish; one in black with intarsia velvet flowers on the front was particularly elegant, with high-waisted GG lace panties peeking out from underneath. (Bringing that level of shine to Gucci's red carpet looks should be a priority.)
For those who wanted to cover up a little more, sculpted wool bustier dresses were a great option, perhaps with a jacket draped over the shoulders.
Although the designer told WWD that he prefers simpler clothing, this season he upped the embellishment factor, proving that good design often involves compromise. For those who love prints, there were geometric jacquards that if you looked closely you could see that they were repeating heron birds. Knitwear was also elevated, with De Sarno's twin sets (shorts and a cardigan) embroidered with sequins.
It will be a test to see if this collection can be sold to the biggest spenders who crave super luxury, which is Kering's financial recovery strategy, while influencing fashion choices in every woman's closet. That's what the best do. De Sarno has started on the right foot.
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