Róisín Pierce, Yves Salomon, Duran Lantink, Zomer, Sirivannavari and Tony Ward

Even if one were awake 24 hours a day, it would be difficult to catch a third of all the brand's shows in Paris this season. Here are six that made an impact: Róisín PierceYves Salomon, Duran Lantink, Zomer, Sirivannavari and Tony Ward.

Róisín Pierce: Poetic clothing in a Fine Arts embassy

A poetic moment for Róisín Pierce, the young Irish designer whose delicate vision and deft skills distinguish her as a must-have collection in Paris.

Presented inside the Irish Embassy, ​​this crochet couture collection felt right at home inside a beautiful Beaux Arts mansion completed in 1892.

Using her signature quatrefoil motif, on crochet dresses, covered in organza, Pierce created a hazy aura that was quite magical.

His inspiration was a poem he co-authored with writer Michelle Freya titled oh adorable, a girl who fell from a starand the result was a moment of grace in the midst of the intense gray rain of March 1 in Paris.

Made primarily in pristine white and faded Wedgewood blue, her long dresses ripple, billow, swoop, and tangle the torso with a certain joy. Pierce plays with scraps of lace, sheer organza, hand-woven scallops, and threaded embroidery to create ghostly but always tender fantasies.

Sourced from recycled satin, St. Gallen guipure lace, pleated georgette and Irish crochet lace, Pierce's clothes are ethereal and perhaps difficult to wear. But if he can shift his vision toward more accessible ready-to-wear, he will have a big influence on the future.

Yves Salomon: chic sheepskin

One French brand always worth checking out is Yves Salomon, a brilliant furrier who has stayed ahead of the curve with their fabric innovations.

Their key theme this season for women was a brand new selection of shiny shearling garments made to look like real fur. By ironing and brushing the sheepskin, Salomon managed to make it look like shaved mink, as seen in some fantastic new pale gray boleros and excellent collarless redingotes. All finished inside with its own leather in putty tones.

Also inside their rue Castiglione showroom, with its mid-century modern furniture, hung several large cheetah-print bomber jackets and long coats, which themselves turned out to be carefully dyed and carded sheepskin. Think Jessica Lange or Faye Dunaway making their way through Studio 54 or the Hamptons and you'll have a good idea.

Duran Lantink: quilting at the Tokyo Palace

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You can't blame Duran Lantink for his lack of self-confidence.

The young designer (and LVMH Prize semi-finalist) presented his final show at the Tokyo Palace, and all the prominent critics showed up to check his temperature.

Durán's big idea is wavy silhouettes and molded shapes. He fills in virtually everything and the result is a very strong signature look.

She has such a high profile that she was able to open her show with Rianne van Rompaey, the Dutch model who stars in multiple Chanel campaigns. The super redhead appeared in a reddish-red knit dress, padded to suggest that her breasts had become bulbous and powerful shoulders.

puffy gray parkas; body stockings with inflated pectorals; and matelassé tights with patched pockets, all packed with punch.

That said, his scope felt a little restricted, like he was always telling the same joke. So if you can come up with a different visual pun next season, we'll know if Duran isn't just a one-trick pony.

Zomer: appropriate appropriation

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Cultural appropriation but in a fresh way at Zomer, a witty and pleasantly strange brand led by a friendly designer duo who have been embraced by Paris.

So Zomer's modest designers, Tatar Danial Aitouganov and Dutch-Caribbean Imruh Asha, hired two older gentlemen, one black and the other white in contrasting polka dot shirts, to receive audience applause after their show at the Tokyo Palace.

When two naïve editors asked the older gentlemen what the starting point of the creative process was, one responded: “How would I know, I was only hired 48 hours ago!”

But the collection clearly referenced Italian artist Lucio Fontana's slash paintings, with open top coats with vertical slits and featured a large series of boldly colorful T-mesh mock body stockings that were something else. Just like the beaded wedges that jingling playfully with every step down the Tokyo Palace catwalk.

Sirivannavari: princess and tailor

Sirivannavari is a Thai princess who has worked very hard to become a designer and, judging by her latest collection on display at Place Vendôme, it was worth the effort.

Siri, as most of her friends call her, has worked with some of the best, including Paco Rabanne and Christian Dior, when John Galliano was in his pomp, after attending the best fashion school in his native Thailand.

In his latest collection, presented on mannequins inside the Evreux Hotel mansion, HRH Sirivannavari Nariratana impressed above all with his precise costumes. Made from Italian cashmere and fine wools, and echoing 1930s heroes like Humphrey Bogart, the range of chalk-striped double-breasted jackets or off-the-shoulder double-breasted jackets and flared trousers looked great. Finished with a cropped hem and a single gold button, they present true distinction. Few better than the one she herself wore.

In a full wardrobe, Siri also showed off silver body suits with Thai-style shawls and coats; anthracite blouses with open shoulders – reminiscent of Madame Grès – and fine burgundy silk pointillist dresses combined with riding boots.

In short, a noble fashion concept created by a true princess.

Tony Ward: Heavenly Journey

Tony Ward is a Lebanese designer who mainly shows during haute couture. But you can see his latest ready-to-wear in his Faubourg St Honoré showroom. It is a beautiful address, located between the flagships of Paris: Hermès, Prada and Berluti.

Ward likes big statements. For next winter she showed off sculptural suits with optional belts with their T-logo buckles; elegant cargo pants in soie mélangé combined with transparent nightgowns. These beige cotton gabardine safaris finished with light chocolate lace were also admirable; or skillfully draped sand crepe dresses with thigh-high slits.

For evening, Ward had multiple options: mid-length kimono-style robes with oversized pockets and some fantastic big cat crepe dresses. They definitely attract attention.

All seen in a striking advertising campaign for Sunset Safari, shot in a studio in Beirut, but with huge desert backgrounds, as if the entire cast could have been camping in the Sahara. A heavenly journey if ever there was one.