Fausto Puglisi added his personal passion to this collection, replacing Roberto Cavalli's wild animal prints with marble antiques. Who knew Puglisi was a marble nerd, traveling the world in search of colorful, veined stones, taking photos and swooning over them in churches, museums, and archaeological sites.
Marble added a new, more sophisticated touch to a brand where tiger and leopard prints often roam. Puglisi added even more sparkle by updating another house signature, the pleated pleat, looking to artist and textile designer Mariano Fortuny for inspiration.
Those classic Cavalli silhouettes—the sweeping dresses with barely-there bras, pencil skirts, and minidresses—were there, covered in emerald, yellow, and black marble prints. But the overall collection was much more modest and covert.
There were large nylon puffer coats and long V-neck dresses made with plain or printed pleats, while jeans with a yellow marble pattern had wide legs. There were long sleeves on shirt dresses and blouses, while other flowier tunics and scarves came with long leather gloves.
Tailoring also played an important role. All suits were buttoned and featured wide-leg pants or fitted stirrup pants. The heels, for what might be the first time in Cavalli's history, were mostly low.
Cowboy-style boots, in solid colors or bright marble prints, roamed the runway, along with patent leather riding styles. The burgundy slingback flats were reminiscent of the color of Pompeii marble.
“She's not just 'sexy': she's a gentle, independent woman who doesn't need to depend on a man,” Puglisi said.
With the brand set to make a marketing push across Europe, Africa and the Middle East, and opening a store in Riyadh in the first half, it's clear that Puglisi, the globe-trotting history buff, wants to go ahead and talk to a new and more diverse audience.
For more Milan Fashion Week reviews, click here.