Roberta Valentini's 'Penelope Archive' to be auctioned in Paris

The eighth sale by British auction house Kerry Taylor, organized in collaboration with Maurice Auctions in Paris, offers a selection of more than 400 cutting-edge fashion garments and accessories, divided into two sessions (at 10:30 a.m. and 3:00 p.m. on November 6). The second session will be dedicated entirely to the 'Penelope Archive' collection by Roberta Valentini, a leading figure in the development of fashion in Italy.

With her cutting-edge boutiques in Italy, Roberta Valentini is internationally recognized as a pioneer and trendsetter, and has assembled a collection of 237 rare pieces in excellent condition. These were pieces that Valentini – who in the 1970s was the first to bring names like Margiela and Rei Kawakubo to Italy – considered too important to sell, preferring to preserve them as a testament to fashion history and his personal vision.

In contrast, the first session will present around 200 lots from various provenances, including an important collection of pieces from Maison Martin Margiela, as well as a selection of designs by John Galliano for Christian Dior and for his eponymous brand. The sale will also offer a wide selection of ready-to-wear and leather goods from Chanel and other major houses.

Roberta Valentini (born Cesarina; she changed it to affirm her identity) began her career in fashion in 1969, working in the family shoe business. After the death of her father, she and her sister opened a small boutique on Contrada Cavalletto in Brescia, offering avant-garde fashion to an increasingly demanding clientele. She currently runs three boutiques in Brescia: 'Penelope', 'Boysloft' and 'Penelope Sposa'.

Roberta Valentini, who describes herself as a “disruptor”, has become a true style icon, recognized for her fiery red hair and has been invited to prestigious events, including dinners with the British Royal Family.

Notable lots from the 'Penelope Archive' Paris auction include: from Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal, a papier-mâché vest, white label, spring-summer 1990, made from layers of advertising posters (estimated at €15,000-€25,000), as well as a top made from a plastic bag, a spring-summer 1994 reissue. (€4,000–€6,000). By Yohji Yamamoto, a gray and silver striped silk taffeta suit, spring-summer 1999 (between 3,000 and 5,000 euros), and a rare wooden and black wool felt hat, autumn-winter 1991-1992 (between 1,000 and 1,500 euros). By Vivienne Westwood, the auction will include a wool, velvet and faux fur suit, autumn-winter 1996-1997 (between 700 and 1,000 euros).

In the first half of 2022, Paris-based auction house Maurice Auctions partnered with London-based Kerry Taylor Auctions. Together they organize two annual sales dedicated to fashion and haute couture, with a very careful selection.