Illustration is where it all began for Zimmermann's fall collection.
“I have a collection of fashion magazines from the 1920s that I bought in Paris markets many years ago,” Nicky Zimmermann told WWD in a preview. “It's fascinating that the drawings were the way the season was shown to women because it's so important to the way I see what a garment is going to be like.”
That led her to the Bloomsbury Group and the bubbling creativity of an era she described as “a beautiful bohemian time where people just did what they wanted to do,” she continued. “That's something that's needed now.”
But it's a coincidence that made it all come together. “My friend Gracie Otto Instagrammed an illustration her father had done,” she said, revealing that Barry Otto, best known for his prolific film career, used to sell his paintings in Australian department stores.
That procession of elegant dancing flapper-era women, used in the opening silk dress, epitomized what Zimmermann had in mind. “The clothes and how we drew them revolved around how they move,” he said. “These dresses were made for dancing and having fun.”
Fast forward another five decades to next fall, and that's the energy Zimmermann wanted to bring to the season, full of billowing layered dresses, giant puff-sleeved blouses, and youthful tailored pieces. And the Australian designer reused to great effect details like godets taken from flapper dresses for statement hems on his Zimmermann descendants.
With the boho chic buzz this week – “thanks, Chloé,” Zimmermann joked – the '70s flavor that emerged with the addition of denim, liquid-looking satin dresses and leather jackets felt particularly current.
The brand has been expanding its categories for a few years, particularly with denim and knitwear, and the fall season was the picture of a complete offering that didn't forget its mainstays, like big jumpsuits.
Outerwear was among the standouts, particularly the buttery leather jackets. They had their existing customer base excited about the show, but they should also have plenty of new fans dancing their way into Zimmermann stores.
On that front, there's also excitement: the brand has a dozen openings scheduled for this year, starting with its first Middle East store in Dubai opening this week and Le Bon Marché at the end of March, as well as moving its store from New York City to Greene. Street in June.
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